Assorted conventional reels and rods are displayed at a sport show.

Conventional tackle is medium- and heavy-duty fishing equipment characterized by a reel with a revolving spool that turns to both dispense and retrieve line. It is called “conventional” tackle in part because the spool rotates in a normal manner, just like sewing thread, with the line moving perpendicular to the spool axis. It is related in general characteristics to baitcasting tackle (see), which sports a smaller reel that is more limited in its ability to deal with the strongest fish and with situations requiring a lot of line.

Conventional tackle is particularly popular and widely used in saltwater, in part because of the differences in conditions, techniques, and size of fish when compared to freshwater. While conventional gear was once relegated to specific applications, like offshore trolling, bottom fishing, or surf fishing, it now has a wide range of functions, and appropriate versions of conventional tackle can be used in applications ranging from flounder fishing inshore to shark and marlin fishing offshore, and to such in-between uses as deep grouper and cod fishing, casting to tarpon and wahoo, trolling for Great Lakes salmon, and bottom fishing for big catfish and sturgeon. Appropriate models of conventional reels with corresponding rods may be used for casting, trolling, and bottom fishing, but many outfits are best suited to specific tasks, and the factors that go into the selection and use of this or any type of fishing tackle are many and varied.

Reels

All of the parts of a Penn Senator conventional trolling reel are shown here; this product features a multi-disc star drag system.

The conventional revolving spool reel evolved from the same origins as the baitcasting reel, and the development of both has been intertwined since the nineteenth century. Baitcasting reels originated in Kentucky between 1800 and 1810 at a time when a single-action revolving spool reel was the only reel available for sportfishing, and anglers exclusively used natural bait or artificial flies. The single-action reel was used primarily to store and retrieve line, and had no casting function. To present natural baits at any distance, anglers had to strip an appropriate length of line off a single-action reel and lay the loops down or coil them in the noncasting hand. Using a wooden rod, they made a sideways motion to propel the bait and carry the stripped-off line. This was done because the bait and whatever weights were used could not overcome the inertia of the single-action spool.

In 1810 or sometime during the preceding decade, George Snyder, a Kentucky watchmaker and reputedly president of the Bourbon Angling Club, invented a reel with a delicate spool that would pay out line during the cast, and which revolved several times for each turn of the crank handle. Thus was born the multiple-action reel, to be called the multiplier or multiplying reel, as well as a spool capable of dispensing line during a cast. The line of that day was raw silk, and there were no lures; for decades multiplying reels were small, and because they were exclusively used for tossing natural bait, they became popularly known as baitcasting reels.

For most of the nineteenth century, such reels were made by hand. There were various modifications and improvements, including the addition of a mechanism to distribute line evenly on the spool (called levelwind), better gears, and the addition of external drag. What had developed as a tool for freshwater fishing, primarily for bass, became available in large sizes for situations where greater line capacity and mechanical strength was needed.

Multiplier types of revolving spool reels for saltwater use were being made in the late 1800s, but they lacked an internal drag mechanism. To offset this, anglers applied pressure to the reel spool with their thumbs (which was ineffective for large fish and sometimes painful to the angler) or with a leather thumb pad that was attached to the reel frame.

William C. Boschen, a member of the legendary Catalina Tuna Club of California, is credited with originating the concept for the first internal star drag reel, a handy threaded knob adjustment that internally regulated spool pressure. Reportedly a prototype of a reel with such a device was made for Boschen by Brooklyn, New York, reel manufacturer Julius Vom Hofe, and used by Boschen to catch the first broadbill swordfish (358 pounds) ever taken on sporting rod and reel. That catch was made in the summer of 1913 off Catalina Island, and later versions of the reel were named B-Ocean.

This product was the predecessor of the modern conventional fishing reel. The star drag mechanism provided an internal friction adjustment mechanism (or brake) to help pressure strong fish and slow the rate of line being pulled off the reel. It was incorporated on all types and sizes of revolving spool reels in later years. All products that are today categorized as conventional reels feature a star drag; all baitcasting reels also feature a star drag. Other aspects of these reels evolved and improved over time, particularly drag washer materials, gears, and component materials.

A conventional reel today is essentially a me-dium- or large-size revolving spool reel, and is usually a product that does not have a levelwind line guiding mechanism (although there are exceptions). In modern marketing parlance, conventional reels are called many things, particularly boat, bay, surf, trolling, bottom fishing, and ocean reels. Categorically they are distinct from baitcasting reels, as well as from big-game or lever drag reels (see: big-game tackle), although there are overlapping features.

Conventional reels are larger than baitcasting reels. They have a star-spoked wheel drag, are likely to be used with heavier lures and weights, and may or may not have a line-leveling mechanism. Some models may be cast, but many are used for bottom fishing and trolling. In saltwater, they are extremely popular for diverse usage; in freshwater, they are mainly used for the most-demanding applications. Conventional reels differ from lever drag reels, which are essentially a big-game fishing tool with a different method of achieving freespool and applying drag tension (using cam rather than threaded adjustment).

Most conventional reels of the modern era are more elementary in design and features than contemporary baitcasting or spinning reels, primarily because they are used for more demanding fish and in more punishing circumstances. Unlike contemporary baitcasting reels, which are primarily used for cast-and-retrieve angling activities (with lures rather than with natural bait), modern conventional reels are less frequently cast.

Many conventional reels are never used for casting, but exclusively used for trolling lures or bait and for fishing at various depths with sinking lures or bait, both of which call for paying line off the reel rather than casting. An ever widening interest in varied methods of fishing, coupled with a need for greater line capacity than even the largest baitcasting reels can provide, has resulted, however, in demands to use some modern conventional reels for casting either lures or natural bait. This requires some models to have features appropriate to the demands of frequent casting and retrieving. Thus,some conventional reels are used for casting as well as other types of fishing, despite their comparatively large size and greater weight.

One of the most distinguishing differences between a conventional reel and a baitcasting reel is that the latter have a level line-winding mechanism and the majority of the former do not. Thus, when using most conventional reels, the angler must manually direct the placement of line on the spool to produce an even line lay.

Manually leveling line on a spool is the biggest drawback to using conventional tackle, and often a problem for inexperienced anglers or those who are unfamiliar with this action. When line is not wound evenly, it bunches and impedes retrieval or dispensing, and contributes to binding of line wraps. Manual line leveling can seem even more burdensome when combined with the fact that conventional reels, which sit on top of the rod facing the angler, are heavy and, for some people, awkward to hold.

Being heavy is a double-edged sword, however. The weight is a result of the size necessary for adequate line capacity, which ranges from about 275 yards in smaller models to over 1,000 yards in the largest models, and a result of the sturdy components necessary for the frame, spool, and gears, which is what makes these reels capable of handling tough fishing.

Line capacity, gears, and drag are the most critical components of conventional reels. One of the problem areas with conventional reels in the past was a drag that became erratic when heavy pressure was intense and sustained or as a result of long-term compression of friction washers during storage. Modern conventional reels have improved, particularly the drag systems, which have become smoother due to modern friction materials, and which better resist compression and the effect of heat.

Conventional reels do have a drag-related drawback where striking and fighting large, powerful fish is concerned. Drag tension is not easily or readily adjustable to known levels. Turning the star wheel adjusts the drag tension, which is usually set to a predetermined level before fishing. If that wheel is deliberately or accidentally turned later, especially while playing a fish, drag tension is changed and may be too little or too great for the circumstances. Once the tension is changed, it cannot be recalibrated with absolute certainty while playing a fish. Furthermore, it may be desirable to deliberately increase or decrease drag tension while playing a fish (usually a very large and powerful one for the tackle), but doing so means making an adjustment to an uncertain level, and being unable to return to that preset level if necessary later on, as well as possibly exceeding the limits of the tackle. This drawback—which is primarily related to big-game fishing (see)—is one that lead to the development of the special purpose lever drag big-game reel (see: big-game tackle).

Experienced anglers can make adjustments to the preset tension of a star drag reel and be reasonably close to the tension level necessary for the circumstances. But most anglers cannot do so, and may have a high degree of error when making adjustments by feel under difficult and pressured angling circumstances, which can have harmful results.

This, of course, is most significant when fishing for the biggest and hardest-fighting species, and when using lighter lines. For the majority of angling circumstances involving conventional reels, adjusting the star drag while playing a fish is seldom necessary, and preset tension is maintained throughout the fight.

General Operation

In the most basic sense, conventional tackle works like all other tackle except flycasting in that a weighted object at the end of the line pulls line from the spool. The spool of a conventional reel revolves during the cast, as line pays out and when line is retrieved, when you turn the handle. When the gears are disengaged and line is dispensed from the reel, a backlash (see), or spool overrun, can occur if the revolving spool turns faster than the line is carried off that spool. Applying light pressure to the spool can prevent this, and it may be accomplished in several ways. One of these is with finger or hand tension, another is with a lever-operated clutch, which can be engaged or disengaged as in a car.

The conventional reel has a lever that activates or deactivates the gears and essentially takes the reel into or out of freespool. In use, with the reel on top of the rod handle and facing toward the angler, the rod-holding hand thumb is placed on the spool to keep the line in check, and the free hand is used to move the gear lever backward, which disengages the gears and puts the reel in freespool. When thumb pressure is relaxed, line flows off the spool and out through the rod guides, carried by the weight of the object at the terminal end of the line. Conventional reels feature a click ratchet, used to signal that line is being taken off the reel; this may be employed when a reel is not held or when it is left unattended.

To retrieve line, the gears are engaged by moving the lever forward, and the spool is turned by rotating the handle, which winds line onto the reel. When line is wound onto the spool, the user generally must level the line manually for even line distribution, although some lighter-duty conventional reels have a levelwind mechanism that automatically distributes the line back and forth across the spool.

Every conventional reel has an adjustable drag mechanism, activated by turning a star wheel on the drive gear. This is located on the sideplate under the handle. The drag tension is set to the desirable level at the beginning of each day’s fishing and relaxed when the day is concluded.

These are the basic elements of operating a conventional reel. In some models cast control and anti-reverse features come into play; the size of the spool, the materials used, and the designed application of each product also have relevance to its use.

Line Release/Casting Features

The vast majority of conventional reels, and virtually all large models, are not used for casting. Some smaller-size reels are used for casting as well as for other applications. In all models, controlling the flow of line off the spool is an important element of use.

Freespool

Disengaging gears to enable a reel to freely turn backward and dispense line is known as putting the reel into freespool. This is accomplished in conventional reels by moving the eccentric lever that is located on the sideplate and extends just beyond the edge of the plate. This lever is actually a gear shift lever but may be known as the freespool lever or freespool clutch. It should not be confused with the lever that controls drag tension on a lever drag reel, although they are both in similar locations. A similar mechanism is used on baitcasting reels but is in the form of a button or bar, which is more convenient; a lever is used on conventional reels for positive engagement and strength, and because casting is less prevalent.

Under the sideplate, the pinion gear, which drops down on the spindle and drives it, is cradled in a yoke. When the eccentric lever (clutch) is moved to the freespool position, which is usually backward or toward the holder, it moves a shifter that pushes a ramp in, lifting the pinion off the spindle to disengage it. Now the reel is in freespool mode. In this method of achieving freespool, the gears are still intact but not the drive mechanism; this is different from lever drag reels, where pulling the drag lever back into the freespool position keeps the gears intact but disengages the clutch parts.

This is the basic method used in conventional reels to achieve freespool. Some reels achieve this in a circular fashion, where there is a ramp on either side of the yoke to lift the pinion, although this is more common in smaller reels (and baitcasting products) and necessitated by a smaller area under the sideplate.

This is a very straightforward operational method. Some conventional reels, especially those with a pair of eccentric springs, provide more decisive and forceful shifting in both directions, but all are reasonably fail-safe.

Spool revolution

Before putting the reel into freespool, you must apply finger pressure to the spool to prevent line from paying out prematurely or haphazardly. Without this pressure, and assuming that a lure or weighted bait is tied to the end of the line, the weight of either object causes the spool to turn the moment the reel is placed into the freespool position, which could cause an instant backlash on the spool.

Therefore, it is necessary to place the thumb of the rod-holding hand on the spool so the spool can’t turn, and then move the eccentric lever into the freespool position. Now the line can be released by easing the tension or, in some instances, by casting.

When releasing line without casting, thumb pressure is lessened on the spool to pay line out at a controlled rate; the objective is to let a sufficient amount of line out for the fishing circumstances at a rate that doesn’t cause the spool to turn so fast that it causes a backlash. This is important because a revolving spool can gather speed quickly, and an uncontrolled spool can lead to a serious backlash in seconds. The backlash not only impedes immediate fishing effort because of the time required to undo it, but can also damage the line. This situation becomes even more acute in those conventional reels that are used for casting applications, because the activity of casting builds up greater spool speed. Casting requires precise control of the revolving spool. In either application, it is necessary to brake the spool to slow its speed. For more details about the cause and cure of backlash, see: Baitcasting Tackle.

Spool braking/control

The majority of conventional reel users employ thumb pressure to brake the spool, because most do not have any other means of controlling spool revolution. Applying thumb pressure is an action learned through trial and error and perfected with experience; it requires the application of different degrees of braking tension for the weights on the line, distances being cast, and types of rods and reels being used.

There are also magnetic and mechanical ways of helping to control revolving spool speed. In function, magnetic spool breaking systems employ a magnetic field to place variable degrees of resistance on the spool. Magnetic spool braking is seldom used on conventional reels and rarely in saltwater applications. It is popular for baitcasting reels used in freshwater and described in more detail in the baitcasting tackle (see) entry.

Some conventional reels have a mechanical means of controlling spool braking via centrifugal brakes. Those with it have blocks that must be engaged to effect spool braking. These blocks are usually found on the left side of the reel, and accessed by removing the left sideplate. Underneath the click ratchet and next to the spool flange is a cross pin with a centrifugal brake block on either side. To be employed, these brake blocks must be moved out toward the flange and snapped into a notch. In this position they rub against the flange and, due to centrifugal pressure, exert the greatest force at lightest speeds, and slow down the spool to help avoid a backlash.

This system is common on baitcasting reels but uncommon for conventional reels, although models with this feature are used for specific saltwater casting applications, especially in long-range party boat (see) and kingfish angling, and some bluefish and tuna angling. The centrifugal casting system is an extra feature that makes reels so equipped more expensive than comparable models without the feature.

Spool tension control

Some people view the adjustable screw tension mechanism found on most conventional reels as a means of controlling spool braking, although its value in this regard is limited. This device is sometimes the knurled knob or bearing cap on the nonhandle sideplate (usually on the left sideplate, but it may be on the right sideplate), which is adjusted by hand. In some reels it may be a slot that is adjusted with a screwdriver or coin. Tightening this device does put tension on the spindle of the spool, but its real purpose is to control excessive end play, or sideways movement, of the spool.

If the mechanical spool control on a reel is too loose, there is too much movement in the spool and line could get behind it. If the engineering mechanics of a reel are correct, line should not get behind the spool; you should be able to loosen it completely and, though there will be excessive end play, still not be able to pull the flange of the spool out of the centering ring of the sideplate. Even if you lose the adjusting screw, this should not happen.

On conventional reels, a small piece of rubber or a dished spring lies on the sideplate fronting against a brass or bronze wear plate. As the adjustment knob is tightened, the wear plate rubs against the stainless steel spindle. Tightening is usually a clockwise motion, and this should be adjusted so that there is barely any perceptible sideways motion of the spool. One manufacturer recommends that the sideways motion be no more than the thickness of a hair; ascertaining this by sight is dubious, but it provides a clue as to the acceptable level of end play. To see how much play there is, take both thumbs and put them on either side of the spool and press back and forth to see if you can move it. Adjust it to a tight but not immovable tolerance.

Do not fully tighten the spool tension adjustment mechanism; this can damage or cause premature wearing (and failure) of the right and left side bearings. The rubber should provide some cushion for a better range of adjustment, and in the event that something wears out, it will preferably be the wear plate and not the spindle.

In reels that are not employed for casting, the tension control mechanism is seldom used after any sideways movement has been eliminated. Most people don’t use this adjustment much. Experienced anglers who cast often with a conventional reel will tighten or loosen the adjustment knob, and employ this level of control in conjunction with an educated thumb. People who are unfamiliar with casting a revolving spool need a tighter adjustment for some assistance with spool braking, however, or they will be picking backlashes out with every cast. This tension should gradually be lightened as they become more proficient with thumb control.

Retrieving/Line Recovery Features

The elements that affect line retrieval with conventional reels are similar to those for all other reels, although because of the applications of these products, those elements are very significant. They especially include gear components, gear ratio, spool diameter and capacity, and the handle.

Line pickup

To be in a position to set the hook and to return line to the spool, some drag tension must be established and the gears must be engaged; the latter is accomplished by moving the eccentric lever from the freespool position to the retrieve position. These positions may or may not be labeled on a given reel, but this is usually accomplished by moving the lever upward or forward (clockwise if looking at a reel from the side). This action drops the pinion gear onto the spindle and engages the drive mechanism.

With the eccentric lever forward, and some drag tension in effect, turning the handle revolves the spool, bringing line onto it. Turning the handle without moving the eccentric lever forward does not engage the gears in most conventional reels. The operation of others is more like a baitcasting reel, with the lever moving to the retrieve position automatically when the handle is turned forward. More mechanics are involved in such reels, how-ever, and they are generally less favored for salt-water application.

Left/right retrieve

A minority of conventional reels have a levelwind feature, and this model also sports a digital line counter.

With a few exceptions, the majority of conventional reels today are only set up for right-handed retrieve and are not convertible. Some conventional reels are made in left-retrieve versions. The left/right retrieve situation with these products is akin to that for baitcasting, and it mostly favors people who are right-handed.

With regard to catching smaller fish and using lighter gear (like baitcasting), it is beneficial for people who are right-handed to reel with their left hand and for lefties to reel with their right hand, so that the dominant hand is the one that holds the rod and is used to play the fish or direct the retrieve. This is especially significant when frequent casting is involved. Because the dominant hand is used to cast the rod, no further action is required after casting to start using the reel; the other hand is immediately placed on the reel handle grip and starts turning the handle. This lack of time delay is important in some fishing situations.

However, because less casting is done with conventional reels, applications are more demanding, the outfits are generally heavy, and most people are right-handed, the right-retrieve aspect of most conventional reels is not the problem that it is in baitcasting products. Large conventional reels especially are used for big fish, and it is common to attach these reels to a harness, which relieves the rod-holding arm. If a person is right-handed, all of the heavy-duty cranking of the reel is done with the stronger hand, which, in theory, is better for anyone who is right-handed, although not as desirable for a lefty.

Left-handed people complain about this to reel manufacturers, and although a few left-handed retrieve conventional reels are available, there aren’t enough to suit people who prefer to reel with their dominant left hand. From a manufacturer’s perspective, changing retrieve comes down to the gearing. It can be done, but the engineering isn’t just a simple matter of reversing things. Conventional reels that feature a levelwind are even more problematic. Completely new tooling, including a new frame or sideplate, is necessary to produce a left-retrieve levelwind product, which is obviously much more expensive.

The problem essentially is one of demand. Manufacturers would make such reels if there were enough demand. There aren’t enough left-handed anglers (or not enough of them have complained) to make it worthwhile for manufacturers to undertake the costs necessary to produce two versions of every conventional reel. Finally, from a practical usage standpoint, owning both right- and left-handed retrieve models of conventional reels becomes more gear-intensive than most people would like or can afford. This is especially true for party boat operators, charter captains, or private boat owners, who take customers, friends, and family fishing. It is simply easier to have everything that works the same way (right-retrieve), especially because most people are right handed.

Line winding/Levelwind

Line is wound directly onto the spool of a conventional reel, but most conventional reels do not have a mechanism for leveling or dispersing that line across the spool. For such reels, this leveling must be done manually. The hand that holds the rod must be situated in such a way that the thumb can be used to direct the line back and forth onto the spool as it is retrieved. This means holding the rod at the foregrip ahead of the reel, and extending the thumb to the right to catch the line with both sides of the tip of the thumb, moving it to the left and right to disperse the line. This has to be done whenever the handle of the reel is turned and line is recovered onto the spool.

Failing to disperse the line by hand results in bunching on the spool. If the line bunches severely enough, it may jam at the frame crossbars and prevent retrieval of additional line or inhibit outflow of line when the reel is placed in freespool. It also causes wraps to bind among each other, impeding the free flow of line off the spool. Bunching also makes it more likely to incur a spool overrun; a horrific tangle must be painstakingly picked apart.

Some conventional reels have a mechanism, known as a levelwind, to automatically disperse line evenly across the spool. This does not require any hand or thumb movement to accomplish. Conventional reels that have a levelwind mechanism are the same in every other way as conventional reels without this mechanism.

In conventional reels, the levelwind may be gear-driven by the spool or by the main gear and turn whenever the spool revolves, both forward and backward. The mechanism is located in a carriage that spans both sides of the reel. Inside is a nylon idler gear that turns a worm gear and catches a pawl that moves the line guide back and forth across the spool. This mechanism distributes line evenly on the spool, which avoids line buildup.

Although a minority of conventional reels feature a levelwind, this feature has been growing steadily in popularity among conventional reel users, perhaps as a spillover effect from the fresh-water use of baitcasting reels. Virtually all mass-produced baitcasting reels have featured a levelwind mechanism for many years. Only competitive tournament casters are likely to have a small revolving spool reel without a levelwind, and that for distance events.

In this area of conventional reels, there is disagreement among users, especially between saltwater and freshwater anglers. The average saltwater angler looks at a conventional revolving spool with a levelwind as an item for neophytes and views the mechanism as an accident waiting to happen. The average freshwater angler looks at a conventional revolving spool reel that doesn’t have a levelwind mechanism and asks why not.

For saltwater anglers who cast with conventional reels, like surf anglers, the levelwind is disliked because it reduces casting distance. How much it reduces distance is debatable, but it does reduce it some because there is friction on the line when it flows off the spool and contacts the line-winding guide during a cast. Achieving distance is often important in surf fishing (see), as well as in other saltwater casting applications.

More important for saltwater anglers is the possibility of the levelwind, which is always exposed to the elements, malfunctioning. This can be caused by the corrosive effect of saltwater or the levelwind trapping sand particles from the line, even when it is carefully cleaned and maintained. Added friction on the line can also cause the loss of really powerful fish. Generally, saltwater anglers like to simplify things because of the corrosive environment they constantly deal with. Enough goes wrong without adding more to worry about, and the levelwind is viewed as another potential point subject to breakage. Furthermore, really big, powerful fish can strip line extremely fast off a reel. The line guide cannot keep up with the swift back and forth movement of the line, necessarily putting friction and more tension on the line, which might cause the levelwind to fail or the line to break. For this reason, no large conventional reels have a levelwind mechanism.

Although veteran saltwater anglers spurn conventional reels that possess a levelwind, the use of these reels in saltwater is increasing, and they are considered essential in freshwater applications. This may be partly due to more people with freshwater fishing experience venturing into saltwater, and partly due to minor improvements in levelwind reliability, but mostly due to application. Levelwind conventional reels are being used more in lighter saltwater applications, such as inshore fishing, bottom fishing for flounder, and casting for bluefish and striped bass. They are being used in all places where there is less likelihood of pressure-related levelwind problems provided that the reel is cleaned properly after every use. Some saltwater charter boat captains are using levelwind reels more because they’re tired of having problems with inexperienced angling customers who forget to manually distribute the line on non-levelwind reels.

A few levelwind-style conventional reels have a line counter for determining the amount of line that is off the reel. This is of primary use in freshwater trolling, in drift fishing with bait for suspended fish, or in bottom fishing at specific depths, and may be mechanical or electronic.

Gears

These are low-speed (left) and high-speed gear sets from different conventional reels; both feature a stainless steel pinion gear and bronze alloy main gear.

The most basic part of the operation of every reel is the gear set, which, in a conventional reel, is universally heavy-duty and more efficient than that of a stationary or fixed spool reel because the gear set operates on a parallel axis.

In a conventional reel, a large gear, which is the main or drive gear, engages a smaller gear, which is the pinion. The drive gear is linked to the reel handle and the pinion gear connects to the spool. This system provides the multiplying gear ratio for ample line retrieval rates with a small spool and still delivers substantial cranking power. It also allows for the use of heavy lines.

Most better conventional reels have a stainless steel pinion gear and a bronze main gear. In a few reels both are stainless steel, and in some bargain-priced reels both may be brass, but unless one gear is slightly softer than the other, this can cause problems.

In almost any simple gear set one gear material is normally different from the other. This is because use of the same materials tends to cold weld, or “gall” together; dissimilar metals nearly always offer the lowest coefficient of friction. The presence of an oil film helps to reduce friction. The result of using dissimilar metals and an oil film is that gears run smoothly for a longer period.

The best situation is for the main drive gear material to be slightly softer than the pinion gear for wear characteristics, especially in reels that are used often for demanding applications, and where the gear ratio is high. In a multiplier reel, one tooth of the pinion gear contacts its mating teeth on the main gear the same number of times as the gear ratio. That is, in a 5:1 ratio reel, each tooth on the pinion gear is activated five times more often than its counterpart on the main gear. Therefore, it is subject to five times the wear and needs to be harder simply to survive. The predominance of stainless steel pinion gears and bronze main gears in conventional reels produces a hardness differential that favors the smaller diameter pinion gear to provide longer life.

Gears are made to work in a given way with respect to each other, so there must be a certain distance between the two to match up; otherwise the gears will feel tight. Naturally, it is important that the gear teeth are machined as precisely as possible to assure smooth operation and long life. Some conventional reels, especially those with a higher gear ratio, have helically milled gears. This means that each gear tooth is spiral or curved, rather than straight, on the gear circumference. Helical milling results in increased contact area, resulting in greater strength, thicker cross section, and a high degree of inherent smoothness, particularly for smaller gear teeth. The major benefit is that, unlike straight-milled gears where only a single gear tooth is fully engaged at one time, helical gears allow at least partial engagement of several gear teeth at all times, spreading the load and potential wear. This is mainly an issue where the gear teeth are small, and there is less surface to make contact, as is found on higher ratio models.

The high-stress cranking that is experienced with conventional reels requires a rigid support system, so that under great duress there is no flex to affect the inner workings of the reel. The use of heavy line, and cranking large fish in extreme conditions, can put tremendous stress on all components. Both the material and construction of the frame and shaft supports are what keep the gears precisely located and delivering long life.

Gear ratio

Because the drive gear is linked to the reel handle and the pinion gear is engaged to the spool, the basic numerical ratio of the drive and pinion gears in a conventional reel merely establishes the number of revolutions made by the spool per turn of the handle. That number is determined by counting the gear teeth on the larger drive gear and dividing that by the tooth count of the smaller pinion gear. In a gear set consisting of a 53-tooth drive gear and a 10-tooth pinion gear, the ratio would be calculated at 5.3:1, since the pinion will turn 5.3 times for each full rotation of the drive gear.

Gear ratios are generally categorized as high (fast) or low (slow), but this is relative to the type of reel and application. Furthermore, the size of the spool may be such that a low gear ratio reel actually recovers more line per full turn of the handle than a high ratio reel with a smaller spool. What is high for many conventional reels would be low for nearly all baitcasting reels, if numerical ratio was the only factor of comparison. Typical low gear ratios for conventional reels are 2:1 to 3:1 and typical high gear ratios are 3.5:1 to 5:1, although they range both higher and lower. In a conventional reel, a high gear ratio may be preferable for cast-and-retrieve fishing, but a low gear ratio reel may be preferable for deep bottom fishing. What is gained in retrieve speed is lost in cranking power.

The higher the ratio, the greater the potential for stripping gears under severe strain. On a high gear ratio reel, the individual teeth become narrower because more teeth are fitted into a given area, and they are weaker. An inexperienced angler is more likely to do damage on a high gear ratio reel when he puts the smaller gear teeth under a heavy load. Fishing with a high gear ratio reel requires using the rod a lot, pulling it back and then winding line onto the spool quickly on the down stroke. This is necessary because with high gear ratio reels the smaller tooth configuration does not have sufficient cranking strength. This is a factor in all reels, but obviously of more concern with reels that get a heavy load, such as conventional and lever drag reels.

Cranking power

Gear ratio and cranking power are inextricably linked in all reels, and most affect how easy or difficult it is to retrieve a heavy weight, or an object that offers a lot of resistance. Reels that can easily handle a heavy load are said to have a lot of cranking power. Various factors affect this.

The length of the handle has a bearing because length has to do with the leverage that you can put on the handle. The longer the handle, the more leverage and the easier it is to retrieve a set load. If you make a handle longer, you reduce the force at the knob. It is essentially the same principle as having a long-handled wrench; it’s easier to loosen nuts with a long-handled wrench than with a short-handled one. So a longer handle equates to greater power (although your hand and arm must describe a larger circle to operate the reel).

The gear set itself is also a big factor with regard to cranking power. If you have a conventional reel with a gear ratio of 2:1, it’s easier to retrieve a load because this is a low gear ratio. If you have a conventional reel with a gear ratio of 5:1, which is high, it’s much more difficult to retrieve a load, although you get more speed. If you’re retrieving something that offers very little resistance, the high gear ratio is okay. But you need a lower gear ratio for something that offers more resistance. Thus, the lowest gear ratio reels have the greatest cranking power, and the highest gear ratio reels have the least cranking power.

No matter what the gear ratio is, the evaluation of a reel’s ability to retrieve line should boil down to something engineers call Inches Per Turn of the handle, or IPT. This is the amount of line recovered per turn of the handle, or, simply, line recovery. That is a better measurement of retrieval ability than gear ratio. Line recovery is determined by spool diameter, which is a key dimension for any reel and which sets the circumference of the line level on the spool and the amount of line wound onto the spool with each turn of the reel handle.

When the level of line on a spool is low, as it might be when a strong fish takes a lot of line, less line is recovered per turn of the handle than would be when all of the line is on the spool. Similarly, the amount of line recovered per turn of the handle of a fully spooled 4:1 ratio reel that has a small spool would be less than the amount of line recovered per turn of the handle of a fully spooled 4:1 ratio reel that has a large spool.

The amount of line recovered is the measurement an angler should be most interested in. Yet anglers cannot quickly determine line recovery when evaluating a reel they might purchase because specifications on the circumference of the spool are seldom provided on the reel or in the packaging materials. While in a 4:1 ratio reel, for example, you know that one revolution of the handle puts four wraps of line on the spool, if you don’t know how much line is gained with each complete wrap, you don’t know the actual recovery. (In a reel that you own, this can be determined by marking the line and then measuring it.)

For a greater discussion of this subject, see: Gear Ratio and Line Recovery. Although most consumers have a notion that gear ratio is of primary importance in retrieval and some think that the higher the ratio the better, other factors are involved, and line recovery is a major one. Remember, however, that reels with a low gear ratio do better under heavier loads, whether those loads are due to the size of the fish or the equipment being used (heavy weights, deep-diving lures, etc.).

This issue is critical in conventional reels because of their basic size, capacity, and applications. Chances are the bigger the reel, the more likely it is that a heavy load will be placed on it. The larger the reel, the more noticeable the effect of a high gear ratio, so you’ll feel that load a lot more.

Handle

The cranking power of conventional reels makes them preferable to some surf anglers, especially for catching large fish.

The length of the handle affects cranking power, so the distance from the center of the handle to the handle knob is a key element in retrieval. A long handle equals power, yet many people have the misconception that a long handle also equals speed, that the longer it is, the faster it can travel. It’s just the opposite. The longer the handle, the greater distance the cranking hand has to travel with each turn. The shorter the handle, the quicker it can be turned, but then there’s less power, so there’s a tradeoff either way. You can’t get power and speed simultaneously.

Some conventional reel handles are equipped with two center holes so you can change the distance from the crankshaft connection to the handle knob and thus affect power and speed to best suit the physical build of the angler. For others, it may be possible to purchase a convertible handle as an accessory.

Some conventional reels sport a counterbalanced handle: one handle knob and an opposing counterbalance weight. This is usually found on medium-size reels (up to about 4/0) used in applications where there is a lot of retrieving. The counterbalance gives the reel a more solid feel with a better cadence to the retrieval action, which is important when you’re casting frequently and regularly using a quick retrieve. In some situations, like casting plugs for wahoo, you can’t retrieve too fast for the likes of the fish. With a bigger reel, you wouldn’t feel such rapid retrieving because of the mass of the reel, but then speed of retrieval is seldom an issue on larger reels, which is why they don’t have a counterbalanced handle. Power is the main issue with larger reels, and this is consistent with their lower gear ratio.

Nearly all conventional reels have a single handle grip, or knob, which is what you hold onto to turn the handle. This is contrary to baitcasting reels, where nearly all handles have dual grips. While a single handle grip would look out of place on a baitcasting reel, a dual handle grip would look out of place on a conventional reel, where the grips are fairly large and two of them would seem garish. It is worth noting that the way these reel handles are held and turned has some bearing on this design. A baitcasting reel knob is mainly gripped with the fingertips and operated by wrist motion, and is not affected by the presence of a second handle knob. Larger conventional reel knobs are gripped with more of the finger and operated with the arm and elbow, which would be affected by a second knob.

Conventional reels have various styles of grips or knobs, and size is usually commensurate with the size of the reel. Small and medium reels have a soft nonslip handle grip with a large and comfortable surface area. Many reels, particularly larger models, have barrel or torpedo shaped grips, which tend to be grasped by the whole hand rather than just the thumb and index finger.

Ball bearings/Bushings

Bearings and bushings provide a way to minimize friction on rotating shafts. Bushings don’t spin as freely as ball or roller bearings, which are typically viewed as durable and reliable and a way to add rotational freeness to the retrieval system. A bushing can deliver as smooth a retrieval as a ball bearing under low load conditions, but under heavy loads, ball bearings are vastly smoother and more durable. Two to four stainless steel ball bearings are used on many conventional reels, primarily on both ends of the spool shaft and on the crankshaft. These are (or should be) of the highest grade, and some manufacturers claim to use aircraft quality stainless steel ball bearings on certain reels. For a more detailed review of ball bearings and bushings, see: Reel, Fishing.

Warning click

Primarily known simply as a click or clicker by most anglers, this is a ratchet device that is primarily intended to let an angler know that line is going out. It is generally employed when a rod and reel have been placed in a rod holder (as when surf fishing, trolling, or bait fishing) and is not handheld. In some situations, as when fishing with bait, the reel is placed in freespool with the warning click on so that if a fish picks up the bait, the line is free to move with minimal resistance yet without risking a spool overrun. In other situations, such as when trolling, the gears are engaged and the warning click is employed so that it instantly alerts an angler (or mate or boat captain) to a strike and to the fact that a fish is on and taking line off the reel.

The click itself features a spring-loaded tongue that moves back and forth against ratchet teeth to make this sound. It is activated by moving a small off-center button on the sideplate (usually the left sideplate). The click is intended for part-time rather than full-time use, and the click button should be disengaged when retrieving. Continued use of the click causes premature ratchet wear. Leaving it on is viewed by some people as a sign of an inexperienced angler, although some charter captains like it to be left on because the sound lets them know what a customer’s fish is doing; when the clicking sound speeds up, for example, the fish is taking line. Some have even asked manufacturers for different types of sounds in the click (this is especially prevalent in the Great Lakes, where the clicks are always used for trolling).

In older reels, if the click wore out you needed a whole new sideplate, but in newer models the configuration allows for replacing the subassembly but not the whole sideplate. Thus, excessive wear is not as big or costly a problem as in the past.

Drag Features

The purpose of the drag function on any reel is to let line slip from the reel at varying pressures when force is applied to the line. It serves as a sort of clutch, or shock absorber, and is especially important when using light line, when playing large and strong species, and when fish make strong and sudden surges while being landed. If an angler never catches large fish, only uses heavy strength line, and is content to wind fish in, it is conceivable that his drag will never be used. This is not the case with conventional tackle, however, which is expressly meant for catching large fish and dealing with tough conditions.

Nevertheless, catching large fish, which weigh more than the actual breaking strength of the line, or which can apply extreme pressure on the tackle, requires some finesse rather than sheer strength. This means that the drag will come into play, because if it doesn’t, the force will exceed the strength of the line and the line will break.

When the drag comes into play, it allows the fish to continue applying force, but at a pressure that is less than the breaking strength of the line, because when the force reaches a certain level (usually a specific percentage of the line’s breaking strength), a properly set drag mechanism allows line to slip from the reel under tension by turning the spool. In essence, it means that a fish can run instead of engage in a tug of war, but it has to work for the line that it takes off the reel, which is tiring and helps the angler subdue it.

Many people mistakenly think that they need to set the drag very tight for effective hook setting. Once you have 20 yards of line out and you have rod flex, line stretch, and the dampening effect of the water to contend with, you don’t need very much drag force at the reel. You cannot exert the maximum pressure when you set the hook. But when you set the drag pressure at or near maximum force, once the fish is close to the boat and there is less of a contribution made by line stretch, rod flex, and water, having the drag locked down may mean that the line cannot absorb the sudden shock of a quick run, even from a fish whose weight is less than the breaking strength of the line. People are often amazed that a 15-pound fish can break 20-pound line, but that doesn’t happen if the drag is set properly and the washers are allowed to slip freely when necessary.

In typical fishing with conventional reels, anglers set the drag at 25 to 30 percent of the breaking strength of their line. This is measured by some people with a short length of line on a straight pull off the reel. It is measured by others with line running through the rod guides and the rod flexed as it would be in fishing circumstances. Most people use the “feels good” method of establishing drag tension by pulling line off the reel and adjusting the star wheel until the tension feels right. The most precise way to measure drag tension is by using a reliable scale and attaching it to the line. No matter what method is used, the objective is to adjust the drag so that the line will not slip until the appropriate amount of tension is applied. Understanding how to use and set drag is one of the most important aspects of sportfishing, and is reviewed in detail elsewhere (see: drag).

The drag mechanism is an especially important characteristic of a conventional reel due to the applications that these reels face. For years manufacturers employed various types, combinations, and numbers of drag washers, which produced mixed results when tested by powerful fish. Better materials, however, have greatly improved the drags of these products, and many contemporary models have very good drag systems. Moreover, because of the nature of revolving spool reels, no twist is imparted to the line when an angler reels at the same time that line slips off the spool via the drag. This is a common problem with spinning and spincasting reels. Twist isn’t possible on a conventional reel if the handle is turning and the spool is simultaneously slipping. When the drag mechanism is activated on a conventional reel, the spool rotates and line unwinds in an untwisted manner. There is no line twist unless it comes from lure use or you put it on when the spool is filled.

Drag system

On conventional reels, the drag is located on the main gear and is usually a multi-element system with washers that are keyed together. The main gear is hollowed out, which decreases weight and increases space, and a stack of washers is located ahead of this, with all of these fitting over a threaded gear stud. The washers are alternately stainless steel and friction material, interleaved to increase the working surface area.

Drag tension is increased or decreased by turning a drag star (radial-arm star wheel), which is located under the handle on the sideplate. The drag star threads onto the gear stud or drive gear, which is connected to the handle, so it rotates concurrently with the handle without affecting the setting. Turning the drag star clockwise or forward increases tension; turning it counterclockwise or backward decreases it.

Turning the drag star forward causes it to spiral around the threads of the gear stud and compress a tension spring washer, which compresses the drag washers. The stainless steel washers are keyed separately to the gear shaft and the main gear to prevent slippage; without keying, all washers would slip and there would be no drag since the interleaving would be inoperative. Washers that are alternately keyed off both the shaft and the main gear transmit power from the handle into the gear via the drag material itself by relying on the friction between those oppositely keyed parts to drive the gear. The more pressure on them, the more friction that is applied to the spool.

When spool friction exceeds the tension on the line, the reel handle turns the main gear and the spool, and allows line to be recovered. When tension on the line exceeds friction on the spool, the spool revolves against handle pressure, and line can be pulled off the spool. The handle is prevented from turning backward by a dog and ratchet, which is known as an anti-reverse.

Variation/Force

Variation is an important aspect of drag function. If you set the drag to create 4 pounds of tension on the line, it should stay at 4 pounds. If it varies to 5 and 6 pounds, that is not good. Influencing factors include how fast you pull on the line, and where you set the drag. If you have 30-pound line and you set the drag at 4 pounds, you’ll have less variation than if you set it at 10 pounds. With lower force, it is easier to control variation.

Another aspect is maximum drag force. For most fishing, the drag on conventional tackle should be set at 25 to 30 percent of breaking strength. For a 30-pound line, that would be between 71/2 and 9 pounds. If you could only set it at 6 pounds, it would probably not be enough for some fishing situations, meaning that the maximum tension for that reel is less than what is desirable for ordinary fishing. So you should check the maximum force you can obtain on the reel before using it to make sure that it will be adequate for your needs. With most conventional reels, this is not a problem, and maximum drag force usually exceeds the strength of line for which the reel is rated. But this can be a problem on an older or poorly maintained product.

Some anglers are very interested in being able to readily get maximum force, which locks the reel down and completely prevents the drag from slipping. This is more common for smaller reels used in freshwater. However, this maximum force is seldom beneficial for most fishing activities, including playing large or strong fish, unless you’re using very heavy line. Where it is most likely to be useful, however, is when a lure or hook gets snagged and cannot be freed; this situation may require you to lock the reel down, point the rod directly at the snag, and pull back to free the hook or break the line (see: unsnagging). If the drag cannot be locked down completely, line will slip off, and it may be harder to free the hook.

Range

Another important aspect of drag function is range of adjustment, or how many revolutions you can turn the control mechanism on the reel to achieve the desired result. Most star wheels have a lot of latitude in revolutions from the point where the wheel cannot turn backward any further to the point where it cannot turn forward any further.

Range actually starts the moment you’ve got some drag tension, not from the point where the star wheel is completely backed off. Sometimes you can make two revolutions from the fully backed off position before achieving resistance. This does not affect the drag tension. To avoid this, manufacturers may put a spacer of varying size inside the mechanism to cut down on the turns of the star wheel necessary to produce tension. Although anglers generally dislike making these extra turns, having this provides some leeway for the manufacturers in case the drag materials differ in thickness from the norm. Thicker materials take up more space; if a spacer is placed in the mechanism, it may not be possible to completely back off the drag tension, so this adversely affects range. In a situation requiring ultralight drag tension, it may not be possible to back the drag all the way off to get that light amount of tension.

The wider the area from the point where line slips under no load to where it doesn’t slip at all, the finer the tension adjustment. A wider area makes setting drag tension easier, especially for the more experienced angler. For conventional reels, a good range of drag adjustment from initial tension to maximum tension should require one and a half to two revolutions of the star wheel. This is an arguable point, however, and personal preferences vary. The problem with adjustment range comes from conflicting demands. Some anglers want a wide range of adjustment while others want to quickly get to maximum force, or lockdown. Satisfying these differences requires tradeoffs in design elements. There’s a point where smoothness and lockdown become incompatible. Nevertheless, how many rotations it takes to get to the lockdown point is important. Ideally, a conventional reel drag should have a wide range of adjustment from initial tension to about 50 percent of the line’s breaking strength, and then quickly jump to the maximum point; the lockdown mode is then achieved quickly in case you have to break off, pull on a snag, or have the greatest possible tension for special circumstances.

One factor that contributes to range as well as overall performance is the material of the friction washers; a material with a relatively high coefficient of friction helps a lot. Another factor is the size of the thread on the stud or main gear. If a reel has a post with heavy pitch thread, just half a turn could take you from initial tension to maximum tension. If a reel has a post with very fine pitch thread, it may take three turns to go from initial tension to maximum tension. So a finer thread provides a better range of adjustment no matter what the materials or components are. Having a conical washer with the crown up also provides range as the washer collapses.

Friction washers

The material of friction washers is critical to the operation of any reel, especially conventional reels used for rugged fishing. Ideally, the drag in any reel operates smoothly, without hesitation. In other words, it starts immediately when needed and maintains a constant rate of tension as line flows continuously off, and it keeps the same level of tension as it is periodically called upon during the time it takes to play and land a strong fish. The less variation there is in the performance of the drag, the better. Some of this performance is affected by the capable range of adjustment, as previously noted. Some is affected by the number and material of the friction washers.

One of the problems with friction washers is that they are asked to do something which is very difficult. It is desirable to have a drag that slips freely and yet can create a high amount of pressure. It has to be able to slip, yet also to sustain a high load, perhaps even a complete no-slip lockdown load. Thus, you’re looking for two opposite attributes in a friction washer to accomplish these needs.

Friction washer materials in conventional reels, like those in other reel types, have evolved over the years. They’ve been made of many materials in the past, including felt, leather, asbestos, and Teflon. Most contemporary conventional reels use a washer made of woven carbon fiber. Penn Reels, which was the first manufacturer to discover this material and use it in the 1980s, calls their carbon fiber friction washer HT 100, because in their initial test, they ran it under tension for 100 miles and it was as good after that as before, with no appreciable wear on the friction material (although some on the metal washers). This synthetic material was first used to brake F-16 jets.

This woven carbon fiber compresses slightly, and that little bit of give contributes to excellent drag range. A bigger factor, however, is that the carbon fiber doesn’t change characteristics when it heats up, because it is, in effect, already “cooked.” With other friction materials, as heat builds up, the material changes and there is more friction. Other materials become inconsistent after they are heavily worked. The carbon fiber doesn’t build up friction as it heats up.

Heat dissipation is obviously an important element that complements, or constricts, the action of the friction washers. As mentioned previously, the metal washers in the drag stack help disperse heat buildup from the action of the friction washers. The heavy main gear containing the drag acts as a heat sink, and takes out heat for all or part of most initial runs by a fish. However, these cannot dissipate the tremendous heat built up by the lengthy and sustained run of a really huge fish, and it is possible to overheat a reel to where the drag becomes paralyzed. The carbon fiber friction washer resists that type of problem better than other materials.

The carbon fiber is also especially good when applying maximum tension, or deliberately locking down the drag tension as far as it will go. Some friction washers, such as Teflon versions, can’t be locked down enough on a conventional reel that is used for large fish; they still slip even when the drag star is turned as tight as possible. Bearing down on a big grouper so you can just pull the fish up out of the structure is a type of situation where you might need real lock-down power. The carbon fiber permits that type of lockdown; by comparison, asbestos and Teflon friction washers are slippery and, when compressed fully, may still give.

Carbon fiber friction washers also resist sustained compression as well as contamination from water, salt, dirt, grease, and oil. Although other materials are used in friction washers, many conventional reels now possess this material.

In most conventional reels, and especially better quality models, carbon fiber friction washers are used with stainless steel washers. The number of combined friction and metal washers in a drag stack varies; some manufacturers have between seven and thirteen elements, the greater number being on bigger reels, in each case alternating friction washers with metal ones. More friction washers increases the total drag surface area. This interleaved stack is topped with a tension spring washer for range and compression purposes, and might also have a spacer and a ball bearing, the latter providing a smooth feel without any load.

If the stainless steel washers are removed for maintenance, care should be taken when replacing them. These are stamped parts, and one side is slightly concave and the other slightly convex. Find out which side has a slight bow (use a straight edge), and put the bow side up. This way, when the drag is tightened, surface contact is made at the very end, and then flattens out and spreads over the full area of the friction washer.

The drag performance of most conventional reels is good to excellent, which it must be for the strenuous applications they endure. A majority of conventional reels sold are used for saltwater use, where the drag is frequently employed and often tested, so it has to be of high quality.

Spool diameter

Due to the normal usage of conventional reels, capacity is an important aspect. Capacity is linked to diameter, and the diameter of the spool at any given moment can also be a factor that affects drag. More line is recovered per turn of the reel handle when the diameter is greater than when it is smaller, so it is easier to retrieve line when the diameter of the spool is high. Where the drag is concerned, as line is pulled off the spool and the diameter decreases, it takes more effort to pull it off. So drag tension increases as the diameter of the spool decreases; it starts out at one level when the spool is full of line, but increases when the diameter of the spool is smaller due to a fish having taken plenty of line. Fortunately, with some lines the increased stretch of the longer length being fished tends to compensate for this.

This is a matter of physics and an unchangeable one, but it’s important for anglers to recognize. When spool diameter has decreased and drag tension increased, it is all the more important to have a smooth drag and friction washers that maintain top performance. Because of the dynamics of carbon friction washers, drag tension remains on a more even level with heat buildup, rather than increasing as line is lost; these washers do not make it easier to pull line off when the level of line on a spool decreases, but they do make the drag tension more consistent, meaning that more even drag pressure is maintained.

Anti-Reverse Features

The anti-reverse component of reels is an element that restricts backward movement of the handle. In most conventional reels, it is a dog and ratchet mechanism that provides a variable amount of backward handle movement; this is a multi-stop anti-reverse. The amount of this movement is decided by the number of ratchets for the dog to catch. In some reels, it is a one-way roller bearing that allows no backward movement and is called continuous or infinite anti-reverse.

This aspect of conventional reels is of most significance to cast-and-retrieve applications and to some styles of baitfishing, primarily because it is relative to how the reel operates when the forward-turning motion is stopped. There is a natural tendency to pull up on the handle when not reeling, whether to set the hook or to momentarily stop while retrieving. If there is considerable play in the handle and drive gear when the reel stops, the handle may actually turn backward slightly. This produces a feeling of sloppiness or instability, and if there is too much backward movement of the handle, it may adversely affect hooksetting. Ideally, a conventional reel used for casting should engage instantly and firmly. The few models that have a continuous anti-reverse keep the handle and drive gear from moving even the slightest bit backward.

One thing that governs how quickly the drive gear engages in a reel with multi-stop anti-reverse is the number of ratchets in the system. The ratchets are little stops for a dog; as you turn the handle, this part slides over a ramp, and when the dog stops moving, it slides backward and engages a ratchet. The more ratchets there are, the quicker it engages; if there are ten ratchets, there will be ten stops per turn of the handle. More ratchets also mean finer teeth, which are easier to break or clog. Therefore, the number of ratchets varies on conventional reels depending on their designed usage. Infinite anti-reverse reels use a cam-operated roller and are self cleaning. This property may be more important to some anglers, like surf casters, for example, than any other.

In theory, having more ratchet stops could pose a strength problem, because you’re depending on more ratchets with less material backing to stop the force of the hookset. This would seem like it could be a problem when using low-stretch lines and when using line that is overmatched by strength for the reel. However, having few ratchet stops may actually be worse, because that will provide perhaps an extra 4 or 5 inches of rod tip movement when you set the hook before you take up the slack and engage the dog. With a hard hookset using strong low-stretch line and a tight drag, you can develop a lot of force and strip the dog and ratchet system when there is this much room to move.

In a trolling application, where baits or lures are always set out under a fair load, when you have a strike you are already in a position to respond without any backward movement of the handle, no matter how many ratchets there are. So in this application, there is no relevance. In a casting application, where it is undesirable to have backward travel of the handle when you set the hook, more ratchet stops are advantageous for quick hooksets. A one-way roller bearing, which provides continuous anti-reverse, however, is most desirable.

Some conventional reels have an optional anti-reverse feature, which means that the anti-reverse can be disengaged so the handle and the spool can be turned either forward or backward. This is accomplished by moving a small spring-loaded lever on the sideplate (usually the right sideplate or handle sideplate). This may be referred to as a direct drive feature, although it is actually a mechanism for disengaging the anti-reverse.

This is a feature preferred for specific fishing applications, often when anglers want a direct feel of the line for strike detection, as when fishing with bait in the surf, or when they are drift fishing and putting the reel in and out of gear all the time, or when they are live-lining bait and want to let line out frequently to follow the movement of the bait. After casting, engage the main gear by moving the eccentric lever from the freespool position to the retrieve position, and then disengage the anti-reverse. When a fish takes and runs off, flip the anti-reverse lever into the on position and set the hook. If you leave the anti-reverse disengaged, the reel handle is free to move wildly backward as line comes off the spool, which could cause trouble. Make sure to keep your hand on the handle if you have the anti-reverse disengaged, or you’ll have a runaway handle.

Other Features

Frame/spool materials

Because conventional reels are predominantly used in saltwater, and because they are susceptible to extreme stresses and fishing conditions, construction and materials must be of the highest caliber, and not only suitable for the marine environment but for withstanding severe usage. This is especially true in the larger models meant for heavy lines. One-piece aluminum frames are especially favored for heavy-duty applications; conventional reels used for light applications may have a multipiece frame. One-piece frames provide superior strength and precision alignment of the spool and other components. These may be of extruded anodized aluminum in top contemporary models and graphite in others (some older reels can be retrofitted with a one-piece frame through a conversion kit). At the present time, a graphite frame on a midsize reel is pushing the limits of graphite for use in saltwater. When newer grades of materials emerge, graphite may be used in heavier reels, which will lower weight and increase corrosion protection (it is essentially corrosion-proof). Graphite does not yet have the strength of properly manufactured aluminum; the newest generation of graphite material has greater strength than previous generations, and is more resistant to flexing, but it is still not up to aluminum. That is why bigger contemporary reels have aluminum frames and the smaller ones, meant for under 50-pound-test line, have graphite.

One of the problems that occurs in using midsize reels with graphite frames is that aggressive anglers fish them with heavier line than they are rated for, punishing both the spool and frame. A graphite-frame reel that is meant for 30-pound line, when used with 50- or 80-pound line, may break or become deformed.

Conventional reel manufacturers all strive for products with lower weight, but these items still tend to be heavy, and some brands a little heavier than others. The use of various materials has a bearing on weight, of course, but also on strength. There’s always a balance. While anglers prefer lightweight equipment, they also need performance for battling bigger fish; doing this requires heavier materials and sturdy construction.

Aluminum spools, for example, are common on most top conventional reels, while a few also have chrome-plated cast bronze spools. You cannot get by with graphite spools on large saltwater conventional reels; they’ll be broken left and right, especially when used with heavier line than the reel is intended for. You can use graphite spools on lightweight reels meant for either saltwater or freshwater use, but when these models are heavily used, they may not hold up to extreme pressure.

The manufacturing process for spools (and other components) has improved greatly and is one reason why today’s reels are much better than yesterday’s. Aluminum spools may be diecast, forged, or machined, which have different strengths and advantages. It is a lot cheaper to diecast, in which the metal is melted down into a mold. In forging, the metal is softened and banged into shape. In pure machining, a form is cut out of a solid block of aluminum; this is more labor intensive and expensive. Different uses and price points of reels dictate what process manufacturers use. The most demanding applications require forging because the molecules are compacted closer together in the forging process, which makes them stronger. However, it is not the process alone that accounts for strength; some aluminum alloys are much stronger than others, reacting differently to these processes.

Other manufacturing features include injection-molded sideplates and stamped stainless steel exposed parts. Sideplates used to be compression-molded, which meant taking the material in a mold and closing it. Most sideplates are now molded by injection methods, which results in superior strength. Environmental concerns have made the multi-step chrome-plating process used for exposed parts less desirable, so stamped stainless steel parts have become more prevalent.

Clamps/Lugs/Braces

Larger conventional reels used in saltwater may have clamps to secure the reel to the rod, lugs for attachment to a harness, and on some versions a brace for additional support.

Older conventional reels used to have metal rod clamps which were fastened around the rod with exposed wing nuts. These could get in the way of grabbing or lead to scratching. They’ve been replaced by molded synthetic clamps with recessed screws; there is no protrusion to get in the way, and they allow easier handling or even palming.

Reels meant for 30-pound line and up sport harness lugs on the top of the reel because they are often used for bigger fish. The angler is likely to wear a shoulder or kidney harness (see), which is attached to these lugs. Forward and rear braces on the biggest models are used to provide torsional stability on rods.

Reel designations

Conventional reels are generally classified by the strength of line that they are designed for and the capacity they hold. Some have long been characterized by an “O” (or ought) designation that was created many years ago, and which has been gradually fading in common parlance. However, some conventional reels for saltwater use have been labeled from 1/0 to 14/0 sizes, the latter meant for 130-pound-test line. The most popular sizes in this categorization system have been the 2/0, 4/0, and 6/0 models, which are respectively meant for 20-, 30- and 50-pound line. It is more likely to see contemporary reels desig-nated by manufacturers according to the product series name, accompanied by some combination of model numbers and letters; these may or may not have an obvious connection to the intended line strength or line capacity.

Ergonomics

Conventional reels are by nature large, generally cumbersome, and often heavy. There are few points to be made about their ergonomic nature other than weight and rod clamps, which have been discussed, and the sideplates and handles. Cosmetics or appearance has nothing to do with function.

A smooth sideplate on the noncranking side of the reel (which is the left side for most conventional reels) is preferable for general comfort and use, especially in smaller versions that may be palmed. Bearings on the sides are not good for gripping; they used to be on the left side of some reels, but have generally been moved to the right, where they are also more secure. Likewise, some conventional reels now have a contoured cutout on the back of the frame for more thumb contact on the spool.

Some people like bigger handles and some smaller, owing to application and interest in power versus speed. Handles can be changed, and aftermarket accessories are available for this. The torpedo shape of many handle grips is still available on some conventional reels, but is dated and likely to disappear altogether on smaller products. Most small and midsize conventional reels have a soft grip handle, which has a large surface area and comfortable nonslip material. Generally, smaller reels have counterbalances and soft grips. Reels from 4/0 on up generally have torpedo grips and no counter-balance, and the largest reels have a barrel knob, because it’s necessary to have a bigger grip that can be worked with a full hand.

Rods

Rods that are used with conventional reels may in general terms be called “conventional rods,” but this is misleading because a vast array of rods falls under this oversimplified categorization. Some products in that array, in fact, may be called ocean rods, deep sea rods, boat rods, bay rods, pier rods, trolling rods, bottom fishing rods, live-bait rods, wire line rods, saltwater rods, downrigger rods, and so forth.

They are generally stiff, heavy-action products, with longer ones used in pier and bridge fishing and downrigger trolling and shorter ones in such boat work as casting, jigging, and bottom fishing. Special attributes exist with some models for particular applications, such as standup fishing (see).

For the most part, these are workhorse products with long, beefy two-handed handles that securely accommodate either level- or free-winding conventional reels, primarily the latter. Virtually all models have a long cushioned foregrip, large enough for two-handed use, for heavy-duty fish fighting and lifting, and the butt of many handles has a gimbal (sometimes with detachable butt cap) for insertion into a gimbaled rod holder or belt.

Heavy-duty double-foot rod guides are used with such rods and are mounted on top of the rod like the reel. This is because fish fighting is what such tackle does best, and the load of a gamefish on the line applies both a crushing downward force on the guide ring and frame, and a simultaneous tendency to torque or twist the rod, so guides must be of top quality and properly spaced and placed. Some rods feature a full complement of roller guides or tip and butt-end (stripper) roller guides. The guide rings are generally small, because little casting is done with most such rods (although it is done with some versions).

Lengths and materials vary, although fiberglass and composite materials are used with greater frequency in many more such rods than in other types, and few are exclusively made with graphite. Graphite may be used in some reel seats, however, all of which are extremely rugged; a few rods also feature trigger grips.

Unlike reels, many of the issues pertaining to rods used with conventional reels—functions, materials, components, etc.—are similar to those of other rods, and these are more fully detailed elsewhere (see: rod, fishing).

Using Conventional Tackle

Line

Although various line strengths from 6 through 130 pounds can be employed with the appropriate conventional gear, 20- through 80-pound lines are the most commonly used strengths in saltwater, and 12- through 30-pound lines are common in freshwater. Application dictates use, and one of the things that is frequently done by conventional reel users is stepping up to a higher strength line, which may not be what the reel is designed for. Often, anglers use a wider spool version of a particular model to step up in line strength while maintaining capacity. Some reels that are rated for 30-pound line are used by just as many people with 50- and 80-pound line on it as 30; such users may also tighten the drag way down for big bottom fish, and this type of action may be too much for the reel. There are implications to doing this, especially for the reel in terms of the frame and spool material, and drag tension adjustment, and these are discussed earlier in this section.

Fishing line is not pre-spooled onto conventional reels, although when purchased from some tackle retailers it may then be spooled by the dealer with the brand and strength of line you desire using a line winding machine. Because capacity is great, this can be beneficial for first-time conventional reel users, especially since it is important that the line be distributed properly on the reel and with ample tension. When you spool line on yourself, you should use a large bulk filler spool.

Nylon monofilament is the overwhelming choice of line type for conventional reels; there is some use of microfilament line, and on certain models (usually with narrow spool), wire line, lead core, and braided Dacron lines are employed. Because line coiling is not much of an issue on these large-spool reels, suppleness may not be much of a factor; abrasion resistance is a high priority in line for many conventional reel users, especially those who fish on the bottom and around wrecks and reefs. For casting applications, however, there is more of a need for a line with balanced properties, including less stiffness.

Obviously, conventional reels hold a lot of line. The range is from 275 to 1,000 yards with conventional diameter nylon monofilament line, and this is often understated by manufacturers. Using line that has the strength of conventional diameter nylon monofilament but has a thinner diameter allows for greater capacity, and using a heavier strength line with conventional diameter results in less capacity.

Generally, it is best to keep within the recommended line strengths when filling a reel. For the most part, you can take a conventional reel and not have a problem going 10 or 20 percent over the recommendations. Remember that when a manufacturer recommends using 30-pound line with a particular reel, that recommendation is based upon a standard 30-pound line with a conventional diameter. You can probably use conventional diameter 25- and 40-pound line as well, but it would not be worthwhile to use much heavier line. Not only is spool size and capacity an issue, but this reel may not be able to handle the greater stresses that might be generated with much heavier line, as noted previously. So, for example, putting 50-pound line on that reel could be problematic.

However, and this is where things get tricky, there are 50-pound lines that have the diameter of a conventional 30-pound line, so you can get just as much of it on the spool. Nevertheless, it is still line with a 50-pound breaking strength (and may actually break much higher); this may be capable of overpowering the reel frame or spool. If the rod is up to handling a lot of stress, and the line is rated to break at a minimum of 50 (often more) pounds, and the reel is meant for up to 30-pound line, then the forces generated on the reel by maximum pressures could be harmful.

On the other hand, you might use a 30-pound line with the diameter of conventional 17-pound line, and achieve much greater line capacity on the reel at a line strength that the reel is rated for. Or, you could “cheat” a little bit and use 40-pound line that has a diameter of conventional 20-pound line, if that benefited your fishing situation (see: line). This is a grossly misunderstood aspect of reel usage that has largely been brought about by the emergence of thin diameter lines (nylon monofilaments, braids, and microfilaments).

Filling/refilling the spool

The various aspects of properly filling a reel spool are detailed elsewhere (see: line). Putting line on a conventional reel spool is not complicated, but it must be done evenly and under tension. If you are an inexperienced angler or new to the use of conventional reels, the fastest and easiest way to fill a reel is to have it wound on by a linewinder, which is a professional machine. Many tackle dealers offer this service to their customers, although that service is seldom available from a mail order supplier or mass merchant.

In brief, the spooling process entails mounting the reel on the rod and running line from a service spool through the rod guides beginning at the top of the rod. Tie the line to the arbor of the spool, snip off the tag end excess, and reel the line on under tension. It is important to avoid or at least minimize twisting of the line during the spooling process, as detailed elsewhere (see: line). Fill the spool to within no more than 3/16-inch of the lip.

When the line gets low on the spool, or when it is old and needs replacement, you have the option of completely refilling the spool, or refilling only part of the spool. If a conventional reel holds 450 yards of line, it makes sense economically to refill with just 120 or 180 yards of line rather than the full 450, but that may not be a good practical decision.

When you partially refill the spool, you must tie a line-to-line knot (see: knots, fishing). The weakest portion of a line is usually the knot, so this connection must be a good one to maintain the basic strength of the line, should that knotted section come under pressure. This is especially important when angling for large and strong fish. However, the problem with making a line-to-line knot for most conventional reel filling is that the line used is fairly heavy with a thick diameter, and the line-to-line knot is bulky and obtrusive on the reel spool. Furthermore, it may get caught on a rod guide when departing under extreme tension and cause a breakoff or spool overrun. Depending on your application, this disadvantage may be a deciding factor; most conventional reel users do not tie line-to-line knots on the reel, but spool up with new unknotted fresh line.

Line twist

Line twist is not an inherent problem in conventional reels. With other types of tackle, twist is often caused when the angler turns the handle against a slipping drag. Twist isn’t possible on a conventional reel if the handle is turning and the spool is simultaneously slipping. When the drag mechanism is activated on a conventional reel, the spool rotates and line unwinds in an untwisted manner. There is no line twist unless it comes from lure use or is incurred through improper filling of the reel spool.

Matching and selecting

As with any type of fishing tackle, the issue of matching the right reel to the right rod is an important one, but in these times it is a relatively easy one. Conventional reels and rods are usually not packaged in combination, but there are some, and tackle retailers can match rods and reels for you. Most of the time a reel is purchased separately from a rod. Matching these used to be referred to as balancing, and properly paired outfits were referred to as “balanced tackle.” This simply meant that the rod and reel felt right when used together; the outfit was not overly butt heavy due to a large reel paired with a lightweight rod, or tip heavy due to a small reel paired to a medium or heavy action rod.

Fishing rods are virtually all labeled by line classifications and by weight of objects to be used, which practically assures that you don’t put a light-duty reel, for example, on a medium-heavy rod.

Conventional tackle is often classified by the manufacturers as being in a certain category and for a certain use, such as jigging or bottom fishing or trolling. Reels, for example, might be classified as high speed, or heavy-duty, or casting, as well as levelwind, but the exact definition of some of these categorizations can range from one manufacturer to the next, and in any event is determined by the line capacity, features, and components.

When selecting conventional tackle, as well as matching a rod and reel, you must take into consideration the applications for it. A beginning angler may be unsure what to select without any prior fishing experience. Guidance from a knowledgeable sales person is very helpful; such a person is more likely to be found in a specialized store (a sporting goods dealer or bait and tackle shop); guidance will not be found from a mail order supplier and seldom in a mass merchandise mart. Lacking this, or in addition to it, might be advice from an acquaintance or relative who has experience with this type of equipment and some knowledge of the fishing that a beginner is likely to do.

In a general sense, selecting conventional tackle starts with a determination of the size of fish that you are likely to catch and evaluating the conditions under which you’ll be fishing. The larger and stronger the fish, the stronger the tackle necessary for beginners, until you get enough experience to use lighter gear. Fishing where there are a lot of obstructions usually requires medium or heavy grades of tackle; in saltwater, it is often necessary to turn or move a deep- or bottom-dwelling fish soon after it strikes to keep it from getting into cover, and this may take a lot of pressure and tough tackle. Most selection thus starts with a determination of the line strength necessary for the conditions, and having the rod and reel appropriate for this. You should also give a lot of attention to line capacity so that you have an appropriate amount of line on the reel for the application.

Holding the rod and reel

An angler plays a fish on conventional tackle, being careful to use his thumb to evenly lay the line on the reel as it is retrieved.

Few conventional reels come in left-handed retrieve models, so most require left-handed holding and right-handed retrieval. This is akin to the use of baitcasting tackle, and it obviously favors people who are right-handed. Because less casting is done with conventional reels, applications are more demanding, the outfits are generally heavy, and most people are right-handed, however, the right-retrieve aspect of most conventional reels is not the problem that it is in baitcasting products. Large conventional reels especially are used for big fish, and it is common to attach these reels to a harness, which relieves the rod-holding arm. If a person is right-handed, all of the heavy-duty cranking of the reel is done with the stronger hand, which in theory is better for anyone who is right-handed, although not as desirable for a lefty.

Clearly, when casting with conventional tackle, right-handed anglers must keep their thumb on the reel spool and control the spool revolutions, then, after the cast, switch the rod into the left hand to reel with the right hand. Most conventional reels are too large for palming and are not conducive for usage like a baitcasting reel, so they are usually held by putting the left hand on the rod foregrip. This is obviously the hold for placing the butt in a belt gimbal or into a harness; for bait and jig fishing, the butt is tucked into the armpit and between the left arm and body, with the hand on the foregrip and the rod held level or pointed slightly down. Holding the foregrip with the left hand also helps with guiding the line on the spool in a level manner, and with feeling the line by keeping your fingers on it.

Casting technique

The actual method of casting with conventional tackle is similar to that for baitcasting tackle, although the former is heavier and the objects cast are usually much heavier, so the casting motion is more one of throwing than casting, with the exception of conventional tackle used in surf fishing (see).

Setting up the centrifugal casting control is necessary for those reels that possess this component, and the drag should likewise be pre-adjusted. To cast, begin with the reel facing upward and toward you. Adjust the drag for fishing. Hang the lure or weight from 4 to 8 inches below the tip of the rod and place the thumb of the rod-holding hand on the spool so the spool can’t turn; then move the eccentric lever into the freespool position.

The vast majority of conventional reel users employ thumb pressure to brake the spool because most do not have any other means of controlling spool revolution. Applying thumb pressure is an action learned through trial and error and perfected with experience; it requires the application of different degrees of braking tension for the weights on the line, distances being cast, and types of rod and reel being used.

Keep tension on the line with your thumb; this will be released at the optimum point in the forward motion of the cast. When this tension is released, line flows off the spool and out through the guides, carried by the weight of the object at the terminal end of the line. Applying too much pressure results in a cast that is short, and applying too little pressure results in a backlash.

Accuracy is often not an issue with conventional tackle because anglers do a lot of open-water casting with this equipment; however, it can definitely be an issue when casting bait to visible, quickly moving, or feeding fish. Achieving distance is an issue for some conventional tackle users, especially surf anglers (see: casting).

Setting/checking drag

Before any on-the-water use of a conventional reel, it is vital to set the drag to the proper amount of tension. Issues pertaining to drag in conventional reels were reviewed earlier in this section, and using and setting drag is covered in more detail elsewhere (see: drag).

Briefly, however, in typical fishing with conventional reels, drag tension is increased or decreased by turning a drag star (radial-arm star wheel), which is located under the handle on the sideplate. The drag star threads onto the gear stud or drive gear, which is connected to the handle, so it rotates concurrently with the handle without affecting the setting. Turning the drag star clockwise or forward increases tension; turning it counterclockwise or backward decreases tension.

Anglers set the drag on conventional reels at 25 to 30 percent of the breaking strength of their line. This is measured by some people with a short length of line on a straight pull off the reel. It is measured by others with line running through the rod guides and the rod flexed as it would be in fishing circumstances. Most people use the “feels good” method of establishing drag tension by pulling line off the reel and adjusting the star wheel until the tension feels right. The most precise way to measure drag tension is by using a reliable scale and attaching it to the line. In any method, the objective is to adjust the drag so that the line will not slip until the appropriate amount of tension is applied.

If a reel is used infrequently, it is a good idea at the end of each outing to back the drag tension off to relieve pressure on the drag washers. This is not quite as important for conventional reels with graphite drag washers because they resist compression better than washers made of other friction material; nevertheless, releasing tension is still a good idea. When starting a day of fishing, you should check and adjust the drag tension setting before starting to fish. Many an angler has neglected this and found upon hooking the first fish of the day that the drag was so weak it impaired hook setting, or so tight that it adversely affected fish playing.

Maintenance and repair

Maintenance is an ongoing issue for conventional tackle users, especially saltwater anglers. Rods and reels must be washed down every time they are taken on the water, even if not used, since they are likely to be exposed to salt spray. Use a fine but ample spray of freshwater, rather than a hard stream, to clean the reel and remove salt deposits, and do so as soon as possible after you return to the dock or launch site. Use soap and a scrub brush to remove any hardened matter. Warm water is best if available; make sure not to use a hard stream, which could drive salt deposits into the internal mechanisms. Dry off excess freshwater on the reel and lubricate exposed areas, perhaps with a pressurized spray oil. A light coating of oil with a rag can also be applied to exposed metal parts. Give the reel a chance to dry out completely, and store it in a cool, dry place, not in a bag that is wet or which will promote condensation.

Make sure to periodically examine screws and fittings. If the reel has any loose part, which is most likely to be a sideplate screw, it should be tightened as soon as you notice it.

Many people tend to excessively lubricate conventional reels, which may cause harm if oil or grease gets on parts that don’t need, or shouldn’t have, the lubrication. That includes graphite drag washers. Over-lubrication can be especially problematic for a reel employed for casting. Some older conventional reels used to have built-in lubrication points with spring loaded balls, which worked great when they were used right, but people had a tendency pump too much oil in there and it got into other parts of the reel. Using the wrong kind of lubrication is also a problem. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the type of lubrication, the locations, and the frequency, as this will vary with different brands.

Details on tackle maintenance are discussed elsewhere (see: tackle care/maintenance/repair). Manufacturers recommend that conventional reels be overhauled at least once a season, perhaps more if used vigorously. Periodically oil and grease frictional parts, but don’t overdo it. Some reels come with small oil or grease tubes, and these can be purchased from tackle suppliers or obtained from the manufacturer. A thorough cleaning requires disassembling most of the reel, scrubbing or rinsing most of the gunk from the parts, drying, and then relubricating and regreasing. If you are unsure about doing this yourself, have a reel service and repair shop do it, or send it to the manufacturer for servicing.