Flycasting tackle and technique
Flycasting tackle is a special-purpose type of fishing equipment characterized by the use of a heavy and relatively thick line to cast a light, and in many cases nearly weightless, object that is generically referred to as a fly. This tackle is distinct from all other types of tackle, in which a weighty object carries a light and usually thin line (primarily nylon monofilament) when it is cast or when the reel is placed into freespool mode.
This is special-purpose equipment partly because the essential fly line cannot be cast with other tackle. It is also special because most of the objects cast with this equipment in the past, and many of them today—especially in trout fishing—are virtually weightless flies. However, with advancements in rods and lines, some of the “flies” that have evolved in the modern era are extremely large and not-so-weightless objects, in effect greatly expanding the concept of an artificial fly. Thus, it is no longer entirely accurate to say that flycasting strictly involves the casting of weightless objects; huge streamers cast by offshore fly anglers, for example, are far from dainty.
The use of flycasting tackle—which is known as fly fishing—is also distinct in that line does not have to be fully retrieved and spooled onto the fly reel in order to recast the fly. In many situations, this feature allows for quick, repetitive presentations. Other forms of tackle don’t permit this, or permit it only in special situations, since the object cast must be fully retrieved before it can be recast. Also, because of the light nature of most flies and the terminal tackle used (leader and tippet), presentations with flycasting tackle are usually subtle, and flies can be presented unobtrusively.
Although flycasting tackle has become more popular in recent years and has greatly widened its application, it is much less popular than spincasting tackle (see) in freshwater, spinning tackle (see) and baitcasting tackle (see) in freshwater and saltwater, and conventional tackle in saltwater.
Some dedicated fly anglers are snobbish about the artistry of fly fishing, but on a practical level the advantage of using flycasting tackle is the ability to make quiet presentations and repetitive casts without retrieving the line, as previously noted, and also to use featherweight artificial flies that in many cases are highly representative of natural forage both in appearance and in movement. A dry fly drifted on the surface of a trout stream, for example, can look and move with the current exactly like a natural insect, which is the primary food of trout, more so than a lure can. If the fish are selectively consuming insects, the fly angler has a far better chance of finding (or creating) an imitation to present naturally than the nonfly angler. Thus, in some circumstances, using a fly is the best way to imitate natural forage and fool a fish, and flycasting tackle is necessary to make the proper presentation.
Although it isn’t necessarily an advantage, the act of casting a fly line arguably has graceful beauty and symmetry, and many practitioners enjoy and appreciate fly casting as a developed skill. Many fly anglers feel that there is also a measure of special skill in selecting flies (matching the hatch), knowing where to cast, and controlling the line and the presentation, and they feel that these skills make angling with fly tackle stand out from other types of fishing and thus mean that fly fishing is more demanding. However, it is not necessarily more demanding, and this attitude fosters the unfortunate notion that fly fishing is difficult.
Some aspects of fly fishing do have the myth or the appearance—usually wrongly—of being more exacting and requiring exceptional levels of skill. The fact that a number of avid trout fly anglers—who as a group make up the majority of people who fish with flycasting gear—speak about flies and hatches in Latin terminology and with the precision of a single-minded scientist does not help demystify the sport. No matter what tackle anglers use, they all have the same objective of putting their lures or bait in the right place in a manner conducive to getting their quarry to strike, and the skills and complexities in each discipline can be equally challenging. In fly fishing, the methodology is different, but not entirely more complex or more demanding than other forms of fishing.
The art of casting a fly line is, however, a little more taxing to perfect, especially in the learning period, and some would-be fly anglers view this as a disadvantage. No one picks up a flycasting outfit for the first time, makes one or two practice casts, and is instantly fly fishing successfully, as can happen with spinning and spincasting tackle; it requires practice to learn to use fly tackle in even a basic way (no one picks up a baitcasting outfit for the first time either and immediately starts casting like a veteran). Flycasting isn’t terribly difficult with the right instruction, but the fact that many schools exist to teach people how to cast with fly rods, whereas hardly any exist to teach other types of casting, is a telling indication. So, too, is the plethora of books, videos, and instructional materials on methods of casting.
Among the real but not insurmountable disadvantages to using flycasting tackle is the fact that it can be more of a problem than using other tackle in windy conditions and in tight quarters, and it has limited casting range for the average user (meaning that you may have to get closer to many fish to reach them with a cast). Fly fishing is also generally an inefficient means of angling deep in open waters, although it can be done.
It is worth noting that little trolling is done with flycasting tackle, and even less fishing with natural bait. Natural baits are mostly too heavy or impractical to cast or use with this equipment, and purists do not consider trolling an acceptable method of fly fishing; trolling is not allowed in flycasting competitions or in recognition of world-record fish caught with fly tackle. This doesn’t mean that fly tackle can’t or shouldn’t be used in such a manner. Some trolling with fly tackle is done for trout and salmon in the spring when these fish are shallow, and also in some other circumstances. Nevertheless, flycasting gear, unlike other forms of tackle, is by tradition and preference almost entirely dedicated to actively casting with some type of fly.
Today, the boundaries between applications for flycasting tackle have blurred because of improvements in reels, rods, lines, and flies. Like other equipment, flycasting tackle has become very specialized (tackle and methods for trout are greatly different than for bass, general saltwater use, tarpon, or billfish), and some of it is much more expensive than other types of fishing equipment. It has become more prominent in saltwater in recent years, especially for pursuing tarpon, bonefish, permit, redfish, striped bass, bluefish, little tunny (false albacore), and sailfish.
There are five main components to flycasting tackle: reel, rod, line, leader, and fly. The last two are discussed in more detail elsewhere, and since the line is unique to this type of equipment and to the method of fishing, it’s appropriate to review this component first.
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Line
Fly line is critical to the presentation of flies and must be matched to the rod that is used. It is vital to have the right weight of line to bring out the action of the rod, so it’s important to understand the fundamental design of fly lines as well as the various classifications and types for different applications. This process is complicated by the wide variety of fly lines now available, so selecting a fly line can be confusing.
Design and construction
Fly lines were once made of braided horsehair, braided silk, horsehair and silk, enamel-finished silk, and oiled silk. The latter was used into the middle of the twentieth century and required frequent cleaning and dressing, daily drying (being wound onto a line drier), and occasional refinishing. This gave way to nylon fly lines, which were more elastic than silk and not subject to rotting, but cracked easily. After nylon was developed, a succession of technological advances resulted in a revolution in synthetic materials, manufacturing processes, and designs. That lead to the sophisticated products of today, and it expanded fly fishing from what was primarily the use of dry flies and floating lines for trout and salmon in streams and rivers to a much wider activity.
The modern fly line is essentially an amalgamation of a coating and a core. It is a relatively thick product because of these elements, but the coating is necessary to give the line weight and allow it to be cast. Castability is the first and most critical performance characteristic of a fly line.
The core of the fly line is a braided synthetic that determines its tensile strength and stretch and that influences its stiffness. Individual fly lines are designed to be stronger than the heaviest tippet that the product will be used with, so their breaking strength ranges from approximately 20 pounds (lightweight freshwater lines) to over 40 pounds (heavy saltwater lines). The thickness or diameter of a fly line is not correlated to its strength as it is with conventional nylon monofilament line used with other tackle.
The amount of stretch is ideally controlled to achieve the proper medium between having a lot of memory (developing a set from a position in which the line has been placed for a long time), which hinders casting and fishing, and being so soft that the line is difficult to control. Braiding inherently contributes to flexibility and greater castability, which is generally advantageous, but the amount of braiding for the core synthetic may be more or less developed to adhere to the application of the type of line.
For specialty lines used in extreme conditions, the limpness or stiffness of the core can be manipulated to make products conducive to extreme conditions. Since heat can relax line, for example, a line primarily used in heated conditions must have enough stiffness to maintain its castability. On the other hand, since coldness can stiffen a line, a line used in cold conditions must have enough flexi- bility to maintain its castability. Unfortunately you can’t have both properties in the same fly line to satisfy the extremes, and the coating is also a factor in this property.
The coating of fly line is a modern plastic, mainly polyvinyl chloride, and it provides most of the weight needed to load the fly rod for casting and provides some of its flexibility, plus color, shape, and density for specific applications. It also contains ultraviolet inhibitors to make lines last and maintain their color and, in some products, may contain impregnated lubrication to resist rod guide friction. Its construction and properties make it a durable item that can last several years with little maintenance.
Density
Density determines whether the line floats or sinks, and it is a characteristic determined by the material in the coating and its construction. Essentially there are floating, sinking, and floating/sinking lines.
A floating line (designated by the letter F in labeling) is for surface or near-surface fishing and is often the first line possessed by a fly angler, particularly a trout angler who uses dry flies and nymphs in shallow water. A floating line is easiest to cast, to pick up off the water, and to fish, which is especially important for someone new to this activity.
A sinking line (signified by S) is used only for fishing below the surface. Sinking lines are also known as full-sink lines and are classified according to the speed at which they sink, which is known as sink rate and varies from roughly 1 inch per second (ips) to 10 inches per second; the slowest sinkers were known as intermediate (I) lines, a designation no longer used by some manufacturers.
Sinking line use is based upon fishing conditions; a slow-sinking line, for instance, might be used in shallow, gently flowing water, and a fast-sinking line might be necessary to fish near the bottom in a deep, swift-flowing river. Which sinking line to use is based on the depth to be fished and how fast you need to get to and maintain that level. Full-sinking lines can be used for fishing in depths to 30 feet, and they are used for trolling as well as casting.
Floating/sinking (F/S) lines possess a floating body and a sinking tip section and are commonly called sink-tip or sinking-tip lines. They are typically used as a second line on a spare fly reel spool to provide the option of easily changing while on the water. The length of the sinking tip varies, usually being from 10 to 30 feet; like full-sinking lines, these lines also vary in sink rate from slow to very fast.
A floating/sinking line allows you to get a fly below the surface but also keep enough of the line on the surface to see it and mend it for a drag-free drift. Sink-tip lines are easier to cast and fish than full-sinking lines, and are especially useful for fishing from 2 to 10 feet below the surface with wet flies, nymphs, streamers, and other subsurface flies. Very fast sink-tip lines keep a fly deeper during a retrieve or drift.
Most sinking lines are dark colored, and most floating lines are light colored. Dark green and white have traditionally been favorite line colors, but floating lines in yellow, orange, lime green, and fluorescent colors are available, mostly as a visibility aid for casting and fishing control, and having no bearing on casting performance and usually no adverse effect on fishing success.
Shape/taper
Shape, which is also referred to as taper, conforms to the diameter of the fly line throughout its length and determines how energy is transmitted and dissipated during casting. There are basically four shapes: level, double, weight- forward, and shooting.
A level line (signified by the letter L) is the same weight and diameter throughout, and essentially has no taper to it. This is the least expensive fly line, but it is more difficult than others to cast and control in the water, and does not afford distance advantages or presentation delicacy. It is adequate for simplified fishing activities, including roll casts and short casts of 20 to 40 feet.
A double taper (DT) line has the same taper at both ends and a section of level line in the middle, and it is used primarily in short- to medium-range casting. Although this shape and its large level midsection is not conducive to casts beyond 50 or 60 feet, it is excellent for roll casting and for making a delicate presentation of a light fly. It has greater life than the following fly line shapes, because the ends can be swapped when the front taper wears out.
A weight-forward (WF) line is tapered only at the fishing end. It is designed to fish well at short, medium, and long distances. It is not good for long roll casts but is especially beneficial for standard distance casting since it sports a lighter and smaller-diameter back section that moves with less friction through the rod guides. This also makes it generally beneficial for casting large flies, bugs, and poppers.
A shooting (ST) line, which is also known as a shooting head (SH), is a 30-foot length of tapered fly line, similar to the head of a weight-forward line. It has a 12-foot tapered end followed by an 18-foot-long level section with a factory-installed loop at the end, which is attached to a long (100-foot) thin-diameter running line. The running line is often 20- to 30-pound nylon monofilament, but it may also be a thin-diameter (.029-inch) plastic-coated shooting line, and the combination results in maximum distance casting and smooth flow through the rod guides. This fly line is used often in big-water fishing and for casting at distances from 70 feet up to about the maximum of 120 (for the best casters); it is difficult to cast and not a line for the novice to start out with.
There are also specialty tapers that are variations of the weight-forward style, usually with different proportions to the overall length of the head or to the sections of the taper. The number of these has grown in recent years, with designs for such specific applications as bonefishing, striped bass fishing, steelhead fishing, and more. Of longer existence has been bass bug and saltwater tapers, which have a specially designed weight-forward portion and short front taper and short belly that facilitates turning over large and wind-resistant flies and popping bugs. Another style is the rocket taper, which has a long front taper that shoots well and allows finer presentations.
A leader (see) is always attached to the forward (fishing) end of the fly line. The leader makes the transition from the large and thick-diameter fly line to the fly. It is tapered from a greater strength and diameter at its connection to the fly line to a finer diameter and lighter strength at its connection to the fly, sometimes using a tippet (see) to bridge the end of the leader and the fly. The tapered leader is usu-ally about the length of the rod, but this varies with conditions and may be longer or shorter; tapering helps extend the fly to the end of the overall line and to turn the fly over and make a quiet presentation.
Weight and line codes
Fly lines vary in length according to type of line and are commonly about 85 to 90 feet long; they may vary in overall length from 75 to 100 feet, with the exception of short shooting heads. The portion devoted to the head and the running line varies, but it is the grain weight of the first 30 feet of the line that determines its classification, according to a standard system in which lines are measured in weights from 60 to over 800 grains and translated into line weight or size, which is interrelated with the rods that are designed to properly cast such a class of line.
Line weights range from 1 to 15 in designation, the higher numbers being heavier and more difficult for the average person to cast. Line weights from 3 to 8 cover most freshwater needs, and from 7 to 12 most saltwater needs. The heaviest lines are used for casting huge flies with muscle rods and handling big-game pelagic species, and the lightest lines are used on ultralight rods for minute flies and small-fish angling. Sizes 5 through 8 are most popular nationally, with 6 the most common because of its versatility in freshwater trout fishing.
Fly lines are labeled according to size, function, and taper, all of which must be married to do the job required for the fishing circumstances. To determine the classification and features of a fly line, read the line code of letters and numbers on the outer packaging. A product labeled DT5F, for example, is a double-taper 5-weight floating line. A product labeled WF8S is a weight-forward size 8 sinking line.
In addition to matching up with the right rod, a particular fly line also matches up with the size and weight of the fly to be used, as well as the conditions (open water and wind being more demanding than sheltered environs). Flies that are very air resistant or that are heavily weighted require greater line sizes, as do windy conditions.
Backing
With the exception of the smallest reels that accommodate the lightest line weights, the nonfishing end of fly line is attached to backing, which is a line that helps fill up the spool and stands in reserve to aid in playing large fish. Without backing it would take more turns of the handle to retrieve line onto the spool, and the line would be stored in small coils, which is harder to stretch out and may inhibit casting by having the line flap against the guides when cast. Backing promotes line storage in large coils, which are more easily straightened for easier use.
Backing also provides a reserve for those instances when a large fish takes a fly and heads to the next county. In most freshwater fishing and some saltwater fishing, the angler seldom gets to the backing on the reel when playing a fish, but when you need it, you’d better have it.
The size of the reel spool in conjunction with the length of the fly line determines how much backing is suitable; in turn, the size of fish that might be encountered and its fighting abilities determine how large a reel and overall capacity (fly line plus backing) is appropriate. Braided Dacron and braided or fused microfilament line, which have very low stretch, are the best products for backing because they wind on easily with less chance of binding than nylon monofilament line; 20-pound strength is standard for use with fly lines up to about the 7-weight class, and 30- or 40-pound strength is used with heavier fly lines. As a rule for the heavier lines, keep in mind the breaking strength of the fly line itself and don’t undercut it. Smaller reels require only about 50 yards of lighter backing. The amount of backing necessary on larger reels used for bigger fish is in the 150- to 200-yard range, although greater backing is required for big-game species. Thin-diameter high-tech lines allow for the use of 50- and 60-pound backing line with the diameter of a conventional 20-pound line, and high-tech 30-pound backing with the diameter of conventional 15-pound line means that a much greater amount can also be employed (for more on standard lines, see: line).
Reels
Fly reels have long been described as storage devices for fly line that had little or no function in casting or playing fish; this is because they were, until recent decades, mostly used for relatively small fish in freshwater. With the application of flycasting tackle for very large and strong fish in all environments, reels have evolved into much sturdier products with more functional retrieval and fish-playing characteristics, in addition to being a way to store fly line and backing.
Although some type of reel used for catching fish can be first ascribed to the Chinese around the middle of the twelfth century, the earliest written account of fishing reels appeared in England in 1651 in The Art of Angling, a book by Thomas Barker; Izaak Walton even mentioned a “wheel” on a salmon fishing rod in The Compleat Angler two years later, and it can be assumed that these developments started an evolution in fishing rods or poles, not the least of which included the creation of guides for the passage of line. By the mid-nineteenth century in Europe, a revolving spool reel called a centrepin was widely used for varied fishing activities, although it had an inert and relatively wide spool and two-handled cranking. This was the forerunner of the fly reel.
Centrepin reels were revolving spool reels, and in appearance they were not unlike the earliest forerunners of baitcasting reels. Still in specialized use today in Europe for coarse fishing with floats (see), centrepins are also known as float reels, have a 3- to 4-inch overall diameter, and feature a simple flanged spool on a single axle. They were greatly improved in Nottingham, England, in the midnineteenth century by the incorporation of a smooth, free-spinning spool, and the new found sensitivity revolutionized fishing for coarse species.
In the 1870s, several modifications by a number of craftsmen, including Charles Orvis, the founder of that prominent tackle purveyor and creator of the first perforated spool fly reel (1874), made these bulky and heavy reels more suitable for fly fishing and the lighter split cane bamboo casting rods that were being crafted. This included a narrow spool, single-handle cranking, lighter weight, and perforated spools to aid line drying and prevent line rot (the lines of that era required drying after each use). Reels made of aluminum first appeared during the 1870s and became prominent by the end of the century.
It was in the latter decades of that century that fly reels were mounted underneath a fly rod and in-line with it, as well as below the rod grip. The reels of that era are not much different than the simplest fly reels of today, yet these revolving spool products have diversified in many ways, especially in terms of materials, drag, retrieval speed, and features conducive to special and more demanding applications.
One thing that is unchanged, however, and that distinguishes flycasting tackle from many other forms of tackle (except spinning), is that the reel is always situated under the rod and below the handle grip. This placement counterbalances the weight of the rod (which is often relatively long), has a nat-ural and comfortable feel, and reduces arm fatigue from repetitive casting.
Fly reels today are used in freshwater and saltwater, although more commonly in the former primarily by virtue of the greater number of freshwater anglers and the easier use (shorter casting and smaller fish) in those environs. They range from very light small-profile models matched with the lightest line weights in freshwater to large-profile saltwater heavyweights that have a lot of line capacity and drag mechanisms that help pressure the strongest fish. Size is important in terms of capacity to handle large fish, and for matching up with the rod and line being used. Lighter lines used for smaller fish don’t need large reels, but heavier lines, which have a larger diameter and which are likely to be used for stronger and bigger fish, obviously require a large reel.
Unlike other reels, a fly reel has no casting or line- dispensing function owing to the different principle involved in flycasting. It holds line, of course, which is pulled out by hand to become available for the actual casting exercise; it retrieves line for storage but not for the act of manipulating a fly; and it provides a variable degree of drag to pressure a strong fish when it pulls line from the reel.
Types
Although fly reels may be referred to as trout reels, salmon reels, saltwater reels, and the like, such type-casting is more a function of a reel’s line capacity and features than basic operation. Fly reels are most appropriately identified as being single-action, multiplying action, or automatic, categorizations that are all related to line recovery.
Single-action
A single-action fly reel is a spool inside a frame with the handle built on the spool. Each turn of the handle causes one turn of the spool, which means that there is a 1:1 ratio in line retrieval. This is also referred to as direct drive. About 90 percent of fly reels in use are of this type, and most of these are fairly lightweight models. When matched to the appropriate line weight for the species sought, single-action reels have plenty of line and backing capacity. A single-action reel has few moving parts and often minimal features, so it is simple and reliable, although models range widely in price due to materials and components.
It is easy to change line quickly on a single-action reel by carrying an extra spool filled with different line. This is most common for freshwater anglers and lets you adapt with one reel to fish throughout the water column. However, in heavier products used for big fish, a second reel might be better than an extra spool; if something goes wrong with the primary reel, having an extra spool won’t help.
Multiplying action
A multiplying-action fly reel is similar in design to a single-action reel but sports internal gearing that causes one revolution of the handle to turn the spool more than one time, which is how other categories of reels, such as spinning, spincasting, and baitcasting, operate. Thus, in a multiplying-action fly reel with a 2:1 ratio, the spool revolves two full times for each full revolution of the handle. This gearing makes the multiplying-action fly reel more expensive than an otherwise comparable single-action reel, and it is used in situations where rapid recovery of fairly long lengths of line is important to keep up with a fast-moving fish (it is used by some steelhead, salmon, and big-game saltwater anglers). This type of fly reel has come in and out of popularity over the years and is currently fading because of the greater usage of large-arbor spools on single-action reels.
Automatic
An automatic fly reel doesn’t have manual line retrieval by turning a handle, like single- and multiplying-action reels. It automatically winds line when a trigger is depressed, which releases tension in a prewound spring. That tension is built up when line is stripped off the reel. This is a fairly heavy reel with limited line capacity and without an extra spool option. Such reels are not used in saltwater and are primarily devoted to close-quarters freshwater fishing where quick pickup of loose line is desirable, and for smaller species that will not take a lot of line when fighting. Used mainly for panfish and small trout, they are also a viable fly tackle option for someone who has the use of only one hand or has limited use of both hands.
Features/Components
The key elements of a reel in use include smooth operation, durability, and—in the case of reels used for strong fish—good drag performance. Although most fly reels are fairly simple in construction and have fewer parts than other types of reels, they do have features that play important functional roles and deserve attention when comparing models. The more often that a reel is used, and the more demanding the fishing, the more important these various features become.
Frame
All fly reels have a foot that is attached to the frame or housing and that holds the reel in the rod handle. The frame itself varies in materials, and it includes the rear plate and the pillars or posts that cover the outer rim. The spool rests within this. Most better frames are made from machined or anodized aluminum and also have a line guard or guide that prevents line wear. On better products, the spool-to-frame tolerances are very precise; on poorer ones there may be some gap between these, which can allow line to slip between the two or increase the chance of getting dirt or sand in the reel (this is more true of older reels than newer ones).
Some frames may be of open or full design, and vented or solid. A full frame provides structural strength for reels made of less expensive materials and requires that line from the spool be directed through the frame before it can be run through the rod guides. Open frames make line changing and rigging easier, and in better reels that are machined from strong materials they do not sacrifice strength. A vented frame (perforated with holes of varying sizes and shapes on the sideplate) is preferred for stylistic as well as practical reasons, and venting exists on spools as well. This originated as a means of helping to dry out older lines, which were subject to rotting; it exists today more for classic appearance but also to aid in rinsing with freshwater, which is important for reels used in marine environments. These holes also reduce weight, which appeals to many anglers who compare relative reel weights, although nearly anyone would be hard-pressed to detect the difference of an ounce or two in loaded reels.
Spool
Fly reel spools in general are deep and narrow, which facilitates line leveling during retrieve, although the angler still needs to guide the line with a finger of the rod-holding hand to prevent center-spool buildup. Newer designs incorporate a large arbor for greater line retrieval per turn of the handle without sacrificing capacity. Larger arbor reels are becoming popular and may be the standard of the future on better fly reels. To be of most advantage, they should also be part of a reel with a larger outside diameter than is conventional, in order to maintain necessary capacity. Line recovery is the main benefit here, and large arbor spools recover significantly more line than conventional arbor spools; they also have benefits for outward flowing line (slower speed and fewer turns), drag (shorter duration of application and less tension at greater line lengths), and line memory (less of it).
The handle knob is built on the edge of the spool, and it comes in many lengths and styles, as do knobs for other types of reels, indicating that there is little agreement among anglers about what is best for comfort or performance. Some anglers prefer a handle knob that is fairly short and round to keep loose line coils from wrapping on it when a fish takes and streaks off with line. Others like a large knob that is easy to grab and hold, especially when fighting big fish and when your fingers are wet or cold. A handle should be easy to release (when a fish streaks off), and many anglers prefer not to have a handle with an indentation so that they can let go of it in a heartbeat when they have to. Comfort is especially important in larger reels used for big fish, since a lot of winding is likely to be done; thin and/or short handles are generally not favored for this use, even though they’re less likely to catch loose fly line.
Many fly reel spools have an exposed or overlapping rim flange, known as a palming rim, which allows the angler to apply extra, judicious tension on the spool with the fingertips or palm when a fish is taking line (too much pressure will snap the tippet) or, more important, when pumping a large fish during a battle. Some anglers using light tippets will set their drag light and use pressure on the spool rim as their primary control measure.
One-piece machined spools are found on better reels, and top models also have a counterbalanced design and turn easily on ball bearings. Balancing prevents spool wobbling, which occurs on unbalanced reels when a strong fish takes line and makes the spool spin at a furious pace, since the handle is on one side of the spool and there is nothing on the other. (A screw, with the head placed on the inside, can be bolted to the spool opposite the handle to help provide balance in older reels.)
Most spools are also vented with many holes, in some cases of varying sizes, and such reels are sometimes called ventilated spool reels. As noted before with vented frames, this has benefits for cleaning and weight.
Drag
Internally, the activation of a spring-loaded switch on the face of the spool allows the spool to be removed, and this reveals a simple brake or click drag that has one or two pawls engaging a gear. The simplest reels should have a drag that allows for enough adjustment so that when line is pulled off the reel quickly it doesn’t cause a line overrun and tangling. These pawls cause an audible clicking sound that differs when line is being dispensed or retrieved (some can be used in a silent mode, which is not preferred by guides, who use the sound of the reel to help them determine what the fish is doing).
A lot of fly reels have a compression drag system that utilizes one or more washers (called discs by some) to press against the spool, which is similar to the drag system employed by other types of reels. When an external drag adjustment knob is turned, it puts tension on a friction washer, which applies pressure to the spool to slow it down. There may or may not be a metal drag washer in the system, which presses upon the friction washer, and the material that has long been favored for the friction washer is cork. The drags of some reels employ metal and friction washers via an adjustable caliper-type system that uses friction washers like dual braking pads to apply pressure to the spool. Some reels use O rings in a caliper-like system instead of disclike friction washers. In all cases, the rings or washers that are made of friction material compress with pressure, and in hard use there is a lot of heat built up within the drag system.
As with all other types of reels, the better drags are obviously those that operate smoothly over a wide range of adjustments with good braking systems, and heavier-duty models have various drag washer materials.
Cork is preferred by many fly reel manufacturers as fly reel drag washer material; it is durable, compressible, and light, and has been used for a long time. Cork is a high-service item, however, and can become distorted as well as wear down; when it gets wet, it can be jerky or inconsistent. Anglers who wade have a high tendency to get water in their reels, and wet reels also happen to those who fish from boats, even if only from incidental exposure. An interesting note here is that cork is not used as a friction drag washer material in most other types of reels.
Some top fly reel manufacturers are now using carbon-fiber drag materials, which are prominent in big-game reels. Carbon fiber has a natural slipperiness for smooth operation, but great friction properties. On big-game reels it is installed dry, but on some fly reels it is installed greased. The woven carbon fiber compresses slightly, and that little bit of give contributes to excellent drag range. Just as important, the carbon fiber doesn’t change characteristics when it heats up, and doesn’t build up friction as it heats up. This is very important during demanding fishing situations and battles with large, long-running, and hard-fighting fish (billfish, tuna, tarpon, etc.), and it is explained in more detail in the entry on big-game tackle (see).
Heat buildup and the ability of a reel (and drag washers) to dissipate heat are important factors, especially for a reel that will be used on strong fish capable of quickly taking a lot of line off a reel. Also a factor is the initial startup of a drag and how easily it can overcome inertia (if it does not, the tippet will break). Many drag washers do not dissipate heat well and/or do not overcome inertia easily, and this is what causes inconsistent drag performance. In saltwater fly fishing, and fly fishing in rivers for salmon and steelhead, this inconsistency of performance is of greatest concern.
How easily the drag can be adjusted and how accessible the adjustment mechanism is, are other important design elements to consider. The adjustment knob, usually a small wheel, should be convenient and easy to grip when your hands are wet or cold. It should turn easily but not so readily that tension can be accidentally changed, and there should be a wide range of adjustment (preferably at least a 360-degree rotation). Too much range, however, such as several full turns of the knob, is just as bad as too little range; some knobs also have click stops to help identify the adjustment positioning.
As with other reel types, you should release drag tension at the end of the fishing day (or trip) in order to enhance the condition of the washer and keep the material from developing a set. This is less important with carbon-fiber drag washers than with other materials. The general principles of using and setting drag are covered in greater detail under that entry (see: drag).
Anti-reverse
Some fly reels have an anti-reverse design, meaning that the spool turns but the handle does not when line is pulled from the reel, depending on the tension placed on the adjustment mechanism. The internal gearing of this adds considerably to their price, but anti-reverse fly reels are favored by some, who would like to avoid the knuckle or fingertip bashing that a furiously spinning spool can inflict when a strong fish streaks away with the fly.
Convertible retrieve
Another feature of some reels is ready convertibility to right- or left-hand retrieve. Fly reels by tradition are commonly set to retrieve right-handed, and many older reels were designed only for this operation (similar to conventional and baitcasting reels). But this seems more suited to left-handed anglers, since they can hold the rod in their dominant hand and retrieve with their subordinate hand. Thus, some right-handed anglers prefer left-hand cranking and right-handed rod holding, and convertibility (with some internal reconfiguring) is important to them, especially if they’ll tangle with large fish that require a lot of pumping and reeling. If the reel is not convertible, they have to hold and fight the fish with their subordinate hand and turn the reel handle with their dominant hand, which also means that the rod is changed from dominant hand when casting to subordinate hand when playing a fish (this is actually what the majority of baitcasting tackle users also do).
Some anglers feel that such convertibility is detrimental for playing really big and tough fish, and they advocate using the dominant hand to turn the reel handle. However, anyone who has used spinning tackle, which is always held in the dominant hand while the reel handle is turned by the subordinate hand, can attest that this is easy to master and preferable. Turning a small handle, such as that of a fly reel, with the subordinate hand is something that anyone can quickly adapt to; working the rod properly to fight a strong fish is much better done with the dominant hand, not only to pump and fight the fish, but also to react to its maneuvers, especially when it is near the boat.
Quality issues
Although many fly reels are suitable for the average range of fishing conditions that anglers encounter, some stand out from others under stress, abuse, frequent use, and most demanding situations. That is when the value of better-quality items becomes apparent. One indication of better quality is a finely machined and finished frame and spool. An anodized finish, or other corrosion-resistant finish, is common to the better reels and any that are to be used in saltwater, and top reels are made of aluminum and stainless steel. Other quality matters include a smooth drag system and easy drag startup, a good range of drag adjustment, and a strong and smooth handle knob. These all add up to durability and top performance for demanding fishing. However, many fly reels are used in routine fishing for generally small or medium-size fish, and they do not require the best drag features or the top materials. As noted previously, most fly reels are used in freshwater, and many times the angler does not get into the backing on the reel.
Rods
Fly rods have developed over the ages in conjunction with other types of tackle and with changes and developments in both reels and lines. For centuries, fishing was accomplished with what was actually a pole (see) rather than a rod, and these were mere wooden implements to which braided horsehair line was attached without a reel or line guides. Rod development with an eye toward casting technically had its modern genesis in the midseventeenth century when the first reel or “winch” was used with a pole, and these simple wooden implements were first fitted with guides for the passage of line. Different woods were used for the upper and lower sections, and many different materials were used in rod construction for the following two centuries.
In 1846 Samuel Phillippe, a master gunsmith and violin maker from Easton, Pennsylvania, built the first four-strip split bamboo cane rod and shortly after, the first six-strip rod. These were forerunners in a golden century of fishing rod development in which many famous craftsmen created exquisite bamboo fly rods, and especially the finest functional bamboo fly rods from the 1930s into the 1950s. However, with supplies of the world’s best cane from China unavailable in the 1950s at the same time that nylon monofilament line, spinning reels, and fiberglass rods came into prominence, bamboo fly rods were nudged toward antiquity, and they were virtually fully displaced in ensuing decades when manufacturers improved high-quality fiberglass rod production and when high-tech graphite fibers emerged.
Although the old cane rods were long revered by anglers, few would argue that even the finest could match the functionality of the best graphite fly rods of today. Like other types of fishing rods, modern fly rods are vastly superior to what existed in the past, and indeed just two decades ago.
Because fly fishing requires the casting of a special type of line to carry and present a lightweight fly, the rods used have a particular and character-istic role. In situations where the reel is primarily a device for storing and retrieving line, the rod is actually more important than the reel because it is matched to the weight and design of the line and is essential to delivering the fly. The rod stores and transfers energy necessary to cast the heavy fly line; its length, taper, and action are specifically designed for this activity, meaning that other types of rods cannot properly cast a fly line and, conversely, a fly rod and fly line cannot properly cast a heavy lure or weighted bait.
Because they must be matched with a correct fly line weight for best operation, all fly rods today are identified on their shaft by the manufacturer as to the weight of line that they are designed for; some can accommodate two line weights. As with fly lines, weights range from 1 to 15, with 5 through 8 most common. Lengths are normally from 7 to 10 feet, although some shorter models for ultralight fishing exist, as do longer two-handed rods to 17 feet for specialty fishing (mainly big-river salmon casting and including so-called Spey models). Most fly rods are of two-piece configuration, but some long models have more pieces, as do travel models; excellent four-piece travel rods are available from many fly rod manufacturers today and are preferred by experienced traveling fly anglers.
As with spinning tackle, a fly reel mounts under the axis of a fly rod so that the reel sits under the handle instead of on top of it; this is in part because they are both theoretically geared more to casting functions than to fish-fighting functions. This doesn’t mean that they do not fight fish well if properly designed, just that casting is generally the greatest attribute of the majority of fly rods (the models designed for big-game fish are designed less for casting and more for subduing fish).
Unlike other tackle, fly rod reel seats are positioned at the very end of the rod below the cork grip. There is a **** cap at the end of the rod just below the reel seat, and this sometimes has or incorporates a fighting or extension ****, which is used for additional leverage and keeps the reel away from the body for easier use when fighting large and strong fish. Unlike many other types of rods, fly rods all have a keeper ring, or wire hook keeper, on the shaft just above the grip, which is used to store the fly hook when the outfit is rigged but not in use.
Most fly rod guides are also different from those of other rods, with the exception of the lowest guide, called the stripping guide, which is a low-friction round ring model. There may be two or three round guides on some fly rods; like the lower guides on other rod types, they gather the outflowing line and funnel it down to run along the rod. The remaining guides of a fly rod are called snake guides; these light wire guides are nearly friction-free and aid the passage of the thick fly line during casting and retrieval.
Most fly rods today are made from graphite or a graphite composite, and few are manufactured of fiberglass. The lighter, more sensitive, and more powerful graphite is far better for picking up line, loading the rod, and propelling it through the air than other materials; and with various grades of graphite available in rods, there are models that can fit all budget ranges.
Unlike fly reels, fly rods have many characteristics similar to those of other rods, and these are more fully detailed elsewhere (see: rod, fishing).
Using Flycasting Tackle
Matching and selecting
A balanced system is necessary to cast properly with fly tackle, and matching the rod and line weight is the key element. Casting power comes from the relationship of the fly line to the rod. When fly line is picked up from the water, the rod receives enough weight to flex fully; this is called loading the rod and it sends the fly line backward. With a properly timed cast of a loaded rod, the flexed rod straightens out and then drives the fly line forward. With a mismatched outfit, this process is just about impossible. Therefore, to cast properly you need a balanced system.
The line, rod, and reel also have to be suited for the type of flies to be cast and the demands of the circumstances or species to be caught. It is often hard for a beginning fly angler to determine what outfit to start with (when you’re trying to judge a rod for the first time, you have to cast it to really evaluate the item), and this is where the advice and assistance of knowledgeable personnel at a good fishing tackle shop (especially one that caters to fly anglers and has a lot of fly tackle) can be of great help.
Some general observations can be made, how-ever. First, a weight-forward floating 6- or 7-weight line (WF6F or WF7F) and an 8-foot 6- or 7-weight rod are the standard equipment that most anglers, especially freshwater fly anglers, learn with. A double taper line is marginally better for easier short-distance casting but won’t be as useful for fishing purposes. Whether you have a reel with a small amount of backing or one that can handle a lot of backing will depend on the ultimate fishing application.
Line weights are to a large degree related to the size of the fly or flies that will be used. There is a definite progression from the smallest flies for the lightest rods to the biggest and most wind-resistant objects for the heaviest lines. The in-between lines can handle a reasonable range of small to large flies, and that’s where the taper of the fly line and the action of the rod also have a considerable influence.
Trout are the main quarry of flycasters, and they are mostly caught on 3- to 8-weight outfits. These outfits are also suitable for panfish, and the reel backing necessary ranges from 50 to 100 yards, the latter being very generous for most activities. The lightest categories are best for small waters, tiny flies, and delicate presentations, and the reels used here need only a minimal amount of backing, if any. The heavier categories are better for bigger waters, angling in open and windier conditions, using sinking lines in addition to floating lines, and casting longer distances with heavier flies.
Such freshwater species as bass, northern pike, and striped bass are usually caught on 7- to 9-weight outfits. These handle still larger and more wind-resistant flies, but the matching reels do not need a lot of backing, because these species, especially bass and pike, don’t usually take great amounts of line. The same weight outfits with more backing are appropriate for big steelhead and salmon in rivers.
In saltwater, for lighter flats species and for inshore and small species, usage runs to 9- and 10-weight outfits with 200 yards of backing. Heavier usage for the likes of tarpon, sharks, and offshore species requires 11- to 15-weight tackle and perhaps 300 yards of backing.
The following list suggests tackle choices for species that are commonly caught by anglers.
Filling and rigging
The fly reel has to be filled appropriately with backing, then fly line and leader, and should be filled so that the business end of the fly line is just below the full spool level. Filling it properly helps reduce coiling and lessens the memory of the fly line on the spool. Technically the process is attaching one end of the backing to the spool of the reel, filling an appropriate amount on the reel, attaching it to the fly line, and then winding the full fly line onto the reel. The sticking point in this is getting the right amount of backing so that the reel is neither underfilled nor overfilled.
Since backing lines vary in diameter, it’s hard to do the most logical thing and measure out the manufacturer’s suggested backing length and then put it on the reel. You can estimate what seems right, but this often goes awry. The most precise way to fill the reel for the first time is to do it backward, working in an open field or on a large lawn.
Wrap the business end of the fly line around the spool arbor gently so that it gets a bite, and then reel it fully onto the reel, leveling it carefully as you fill it up. Then attach the backing firmly to the exposed end of fly line (use a Uni Knot) and wind the backing on, leveling it until the reel reaches a nearly full level. Cut the backing from the filler spool. Tie the backing to a solid object, and walk off with the reel, allowing the entire line to lie stretched out on the ground. When all the line is off the reel, walk back to where the line is tied and connect the end of the line to the reel arbor. Wind all of the backing and then the fly line onto the reel, leveling it as it fills. Attach a leader to the fly line, and you’re ready to rig the rod.
To rig the rod for casting, secure the foot of the reel in the rod’s reel seat so that the line guide faces forward; then strip off the leader and a few feet of the fly line. Double the first foot of the fly line, and pass the doubled line through the stripping and snake guides, pulling the leader out once the doubled line is through. Now you’re ready to practice casting.
Straightening leader/line
Both the leader and the fly line may develop a set when they have been left in the spooled position for a while. This can produce coils that may adversely affect how the lines lie in or on the water and how they turn over when cast. The set can be removed from the fly line by stretching it; attach the line to a solid object or have a companion hold it at least a normal casting distance away, pull on the fly line for about half a minute, and then release it. To straighten the leader, have someone hold the end of the fly line taut or attach it to a firm object; work from the butt of the leader toward the tip, holding the lower area of the leader in one hand and stroking the tight section repeatedly with your other hand until it warms to the touch. Repeat this as you work down the leader to the tip. These actions should not be necessary if you’ve just put the line on the reel or have been using the line and reel regularly.
Holding rod and reel
To cast, hold the rod with a comfortable relaxed grip in which the thumb rests atop the handle and the other fingers curl around it, with the knuckle of the forefinger at about the same level on the handle as the thumb. This is quite similar to how you would hold a screwdriver. Don’t wrap your thumb around the handle on top of your index finger, and don’t hold the handle in a tight vise grip, both of which cause fatigue. Some casting instructors recommend a grip with the forefinger extended along the top of the rod and the thumb along the side; this can offer good control, but it is not a strong grip for most people, especially with heavier tackle.
If you’re retrieving line with the other hand, you can keep holding the rod this way to play a fish, but if you use your casting hand to turn the reel handle, you will have to switch the rod from your casting hand to your other hand to play a fish off the reel.
Holding line for casting/retrieving
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Both the casting and noncasting hands play a role in holding the fly line at different times, and line control is an important element of casting, retrieving, and playing a fish.
Small fish in freshwater are often played without using the reel. To do this, as well as to keep the line under control when you have to set the hook, the line should be caught beneath a finger on the rod hand and pulled over the finger and through the guides by the left hand. Fish can be controlled by the pressure from this finger on the line. If the fish starts taking line, lessen finger pressure; when the fish comes toward you, strip the line in with your left hand, letting the extra line fall into the water or onto the ground or floor of the boat. Pin the line firmly against the handle when landing the fish and also when setting the hook. Letting the line fall into the water can lead to tangling, however; tangling will be a problem if the fish runs off and takes line from you, and it can interfere with playing or landing the fish.
The line should also be under the same finger control for retrieving a fly, which is done with a stripping motion. When a large fish is hooked, the line stays pinned to the handle by the forefinger so that the hookset can be made; the finger is kept in position, but tension is relaxed to allow the fish to take line if necessary. At this time, any loose line should be quickly reeled onto the spool, so that the fish is played from the reel. Do not leave line lying about when playing a large fish; loose line can wrap on an object and be snagged when a big fish wants to run, causing the tippet or leader to snap. To gather slack line, keep the forefinger on the line, use your free hand to drape slack nearest to the reel over your pinky, and use the pinky to gather and direct untangled line onto the spool as you turn the handle with your other hand. When fighting a fish off the reel, you still have to use your pinky to level the line on the spool.
Fly line is often held in small loops in the noncasting hand and is freed during false casting to lengthen the amount of line that is cast. Holding it in the hand is more likely to avoid tangling than letting it fall free to the ground or water, but it is not tangle-proof. These loops are gathered on the noncasting hand when line is stripped and retrieved.
To hold moderate amounts of line, try wrapping it in a figure-eight manner over the fingers of your noncasting hand. This is best done when fishing in freshwater for small species of fish, because you don’t want line wrapped around your hand when a big fish might strike and suddenly pull on your tied-up fingers. However, this is a very effective way to gather line in small-stream fishing situations, and it allows the line to spiral off the fingers during a cast without tangling and without jamming in the stripping guide.
To use figure-eight line gathering: Drape a section of line under the thumb, over the forefinger, and under the other three fingers; then tilt the hand downward and drape it behind the last two fingers and between the second and third fingers to form a figure-eight pattern. Work the line toward your palm by wiggling your fingers, and then repeat the steps. To release the line, point your fingertips toward the stripping guide on the forward cast and let it spiral off, which will shoot it easily through the guides.
Casting Technique
Casting with fly rod and fly line has the aura of being difficult, but it needn’t be. It does require an adroit combination of coordinated wrist and forearm movement, however, but brute strength isn’t necessary, nor is a lot of wrist action or quick, whippy rod movements. Flycasting is different from other types of casting because the line is cast instead of the lure and because two hands are used in the process, one for rod control and the other for line control. There are two primary casts: the overhead and the roll, with the former predominating. Hauling is a maneuver used in overhead casting to accelerate the line.
Overhead cast
The overhead cast is the basic cast in fly fishing. It has both forward and backward movements, with a brief pause in between, and starts with picking line up from the water. A good back cast is dependent on picking the line up off the water properly and is important for presenting the fly ahead of you, so all of the elements of this cast are interrelated.
This is the basic overhead flycasting process, assuming that you are facing right and casting to the right: Beginning with the fly line and leader fully extended straight out in front of you and the rod in an approximate 3 o’clock position (if viewed from the side with the rod pointed to the right), raise the rod decisively to the 12 o’clock position and flick your wrist sharply, allowing the rod to go no further than an 11 o’clock position. This action brings the fly line and leader off the water and sends it in the air behind you. Pause for an instant to let the line straighten out, and, just as it does, bring the rod forward to the 1 o’clock position. A tight loop should unfurl. As the line straightens and the fly reaches its destination, follow through by lowering the rod tip. The forward casting movement is akin to hammering a nail into the wall, and the right timing is needed to load the rod properly for optimum forward impetus. Realize that the clock positions mentioned are guidelines for casting, but not absolutes, and that the quality of the rod and length of line cast have a bearing on exact positions and variances in timing.
Since this cast starts with the action of raising the rod, which picks up the line in front of you and starts it into the air, it is important to get the initial element right. This is best done with a somewhat slow and deliberate motion rather than a quick, snapping one. Using your left hand to pull down on the fly line, which is known as a single haul, helps.
Unlike casting with other types of tackle, most flycasting is not a series of one-shot casts. It is often necessary to move the fly line and fly through the air in a series of continuous motions to get out the right amount of line to place the fly correctly. This is called false casting, and it means making two, three, or sometimes four backward and forward casting motions without allowing line or fly to touch the water before laying down the line and fly. This is also used to dry surface flies out so that they float better.
The overhead cast is used for all distances, although as the distance to be cast increases, many anglers tend to push at the end of the forward cast, or wait too long for line to unfurl on the back cast. Shooting tapers and weight-forward lines help achieve distance, as does employing coils of line in one hand for quick release or using the single- or double-haul technique.
Beginning flycasters should practice on a closely cropped lawn with targets and then move to practicing on the water, instead of trying to learn while actually fishing. Beginners, and anglers having casting trouble, should make short-distance casts and watch the line unfurl behind them to get the timing between the end of the backward motion and the beginning of the forward motion right, and to see if they are managing to get tight loops in the unfurling line. If you hear a snapping or cracking sound when casting, the forward cast was started too soon; this rarely happens when you start the back cast because the line is in front of you and you can see it readily. Watch behind you to help develop timing and rhythm.
Getting in-air line loops under control is important to good casting and also for dealing with certain situations. The size or width of the loop is determined by the length of the casting stroke and the movement of the rod tip. If the tip of the rod moves in a wide arc due to a long powerful stroke, the line will have a wide, or deep, loop, and the line will fall on the water with a lot of slack in it. This may be desirable in some situations, such as when you need to have a long natural drift in flowing water. A short stroke produces a tight, or narrow, loop, which has less air resistance and thus is better for distance and accurate fly placement. Generally, a tight loop is preferable for fishing, and it is especially desirable when casting into the wind.
If you are a new caster, it is important to keep your arm movements to a minimum, relying on wrist and forearm action when casting; do not lift your elbow up high or raise your arm so that the rod hand winds up over your head. If your arm moves a lot, casting will suffer. Try to perfect a motion that is more akin to hammering a nail than to tossing a ball.
Hauling
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Hauling is a means of accelerating the line to load the rod and is used to help pick the line off the water for the back cast or to shoot out a greater length of it in the forward cast. Doing either one of these alone is a single haul, and doing both in the same casting sequence is known as a double haul. In a double haul cast, the angler uses the nonrod hand to give some speed to both the pickup and the forward momentum of the fly line. It is a technique that takes practice to master because the motions have to be blended properly together.
Assuming that you cast with the right hand and hold fly line in your left, you would accomplish this as follows: Hold the line firmly in your left hand ahead of and close to the reel; at the same instant that you raise the rod to lift line off the water for an overhead cast, pull sharply on the line in your left hand, bringing it down toward your left hip. As the line rises into the air on the back cast, raise your left hand and release some of the line to extend the backward length of the fly line in the air; as the line straightens out behind you, grab the line near the reel with your left hand and, at the same time as your right hand begins to power the rod forward, pull sharply down on the line in your left hand. As the rod comes forward, release the line in your hand to shoot it through the guides and extend the casting distance.
To get greater amounts of line out, which is called shooting the line, you can strip 10 to 12 feet of it off the reel onto the ground (beware of line-catching obstructions) and send it “shooting” through the rod guides by properly hauling it. This is preferable to using a series of tiring false casts to extend the length of line being cast.
Inexperienced flycasters should not attempt hauling until they have mastered a fluid basic overhead casting motion with tight loops. Start with the single haul, especially for lifting line off the water, and begin with modest amounts of line to master the motion.
Roll cast
The roll cast is a very practical cast for making fly presentations at a distance of 40 to 50 feet and also as a means of laying out line to pick it up for a standard overhead cast. It is often used as a standard means of manipulating a line and presenting a fly when there is no room behind you to make a back cast for overhead casting. A roll cast has no back casting motion per se, and the line is not lifted off the water into the air as in an overhead cast.
To roll cast: Raise the rod tip up steadily but not too quickly until it is just past a vertical position (generally when the rod gets past your ear) and at a point where there is a curved bow of line extending from the rod tip behind you; then bring the rod sharply forward and downward in a nail-hammering motion. The last action brings the line rolling toward you with leader and fly following, then rolls it over, and lays it all out straightaway. When you bring up the rod to execute this cast, cant it slightly outward; the line coming from the rod tip must be to the outside of the tip, not between the tip and your body.
You can also use the roll cast to straighten out line that is crumpled in front of you, or otherwise lying awkwardly, and lift it smoothly off the water. Make a relaxed roll cast to get the line straight ahead of you, and then immediately lift it off the water to execute an overhead cast.
Roll casting is easiest with floating and slow- sinking lines and with sink-tip lines that are not too deep. A distance of 20 to 30 feet is easiest to roll cast.
Specialty casts
The fly line, leader, and fly can be manipulated during or after the cast. Manipulation during the cast is called an in-air mend; after the cast, it is an on-water mend. In-air mends include an S cast, curve cast, reach cast, and pile cast (see: mending). The technique of mending fly line is used in flowing water to aid the natural drift of a fly, and it is something not done with other types of fishing line or tackle.
The same motion that is used for overhead flycasting can be adapted to sidearm casting with a bit of practice, although not many anglers are very accomplished with it. In close quarters and wind, the best way to get a fly to a target is to turn your body directly away from the target, cast in the opposite direction, and use what would ordinarily be the back cast to lay the fly down.
Problems/solutions
Casting problems essentially result from bad habits and poor technique, which underscores the importance of learning fundamentals. Some of the common difficulties experienced by flycasters are briefly noted here, along with ways to deal with them.
A wind knot is an overhand knot that is usually found in the leader and most often results from overacceleration of the rod; a smooth stroke helps eliminate this and also prevents the fly from hitting the rod or hooking the line.
Hitting the water on the back cast is a result of a low back cast, caused by overextending the backward casting stroke, which drives the line down, or is the result of slow line speed; the solution is to cast with a stiff wrist, stop the back cast in a high position, and keep the rod tip from drifting back.
Piling up line, leader, and fly at the end of the cast is caused by a wide loop, which results from an overextended casting arc; shorten the casting stroke, and stop the rod abruptly to get a tighter loop and extended line.
Slapping the water with the fly, leader, and fly line is caused by lowering the rod tip at the end of the forward casting motion; keep a short stroke, and aim the cast higher so that the line and fly settle gently.
Failure to get even a short amount of line out and moving fluidly is often the first problem a beginning caster has and is due to mismatched tackle, letting line slip out during the casting stroke, or waving the rod through a wide instead of narrow arc. Using properly matched tackle and keeping a firm grip on the line will solve this issue. Proper technique requires using only your wrist and forearm to move the rod in a narrow path to create tight loops, which will allow the line to cast smoothly.
See: Baitcasting Tackle; Casting; Knots, Fishing; Line; Reel, Fishing; Rod, Fishing; Spincasting Tackle; Spinning Tackle.
Tip guide
Seat
Extension ****
Snake guides
Keeper ring
Handle
Reel
Floating
Sink-tip
Slow sinking
Fast sinking
Super fast sinking
Reel end
Leader end
Level (L)
Weight-forward (WF)
Double Taper (DT)
Bass bug (WF)
Shooting head (SH)
Counterbalance
Frame
Exposed rim
Vented spool
Frame
Foot
Spool
Spool arbor
Post
Handle
Line guard
Drag control
Tapered Leader
Figure-Eight Line Gathering
Tip drifts back
Stop
Smooth sharp lift
Accelerate when line straightens
Stop
Follow through for gentle drop
Forward cast
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2
3
4
5
6
Used by arrangement with John Wiley & Sons,Inc.,(Fish illustrations © 1999 David Kiphuth.)
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