A length of nylon monofilament or wire at the end of a fishing line. Also known as a trace, a leader is intended either to have low visibility so that it does not appear to be connected to a lure, hook, or fly or to protect the line from cutting or breaking. No leader material is able to do both of these simultaneously, which would be the ideal. Low-visibility leaders are mainly employed in freshwater fishing, especially for trout and salmon in streams, and in some saltwater situations, like bonefishing.

Leaders are of varying lengths; the terminal end is connected directly to a lure, fly, hook, snap, or swivel, and the **** is connected directly to the fishing line. Sometimes a leader is used from a swivel to a weight, baited hook, diving planer, or bottom rig.

A leader may be lighter or heavier in strength than the main fishing line, depending upon its application, and level or tapered in both diameter and strength. Nylon monofilament leaders are always used in fly fishing because they aid the delivery of a fly and, in most situations, are relatively imperceptible; such leaders are lighter than the fly line, and the terminal end is generally tapered to a fine diameter and a lighter strength. Most leaders used for other applications have a greater breaking strength than the main fishing line because their primary purpose is to protect against abrasion, cutting, or shock that would cause breakage.

Leaders may be employed in casting, trolling, and baitfishing, and while using all types of tackle. They are more common in saltwater angling than in freshwater, owing to the greater number of nasty fish encountered in the marine environment and some of the different techniques employed; some type of leader, for example, is virtually always used in offshore big-game fishing and shark fishing. Leaders are most likely to be used for fish with sharp teeth, scales, or gill covers; for fish that are very big and powerful; for fish that are hard to land or unhook and release near the boat; and for species that live in places where line-damaging obstructions are frequently encountered.

Tapered Fly Leaders

Depicted here is a fly tippet and wire bite guard used to avoid breakoffs by fish with sharp teeth or rough mouths. The end of the guard that attaches to the fly has a reformable Haywire Twist that gets covered by a plastic tube (inset).

In fly fishing, using nylon monofilament leaders of varying lengths (up to 9 feet) is a necessity. This is because the fly line is too thick to be attached directly to the fly, and its size would alarm fish if it were attached directly to the fly; the lighter line, when tapered down, is important for turning over and quietly presenting a fly as well as getting it to float or sink naturally. Fly leaders are nearly all tapered from a heavy **** end (which is usually 20- to 30-pound test) through the midsection to a light end, with or without a tippet (see). However, in some situations, a short length of level leader (one length of the same diameter) can be used; this is most common when using sinking lines and leaders under 6 feet long, and when angling for fish that are not highly selective or leader-shy.

In other circumstances, and especially in stream trout fishing and fishing with dry flies, a progressive taper is important to a leader for transmitting the rolling energy from the line throughout the leader. Thus, the **** should have enough stiffness (and usually from two-thirds to three-quarters of the diameter of the fly line) to transfer the rolling energy from the fly line through the rest of the tapered leader to a fine tippet that will allow it to settle lightly and move naturally.

Fly leaders are available in premanufactured knotless tapered versions, or they can be constructed by the angler in knotted compound tapered sections that successively taper down in strength and diameter. The **** is similar in diameter to the fly line, to which it is tied; the midsection continues the taper, and the tip or terminal end tapers still further and is attached to the fly. When using small flies and light leaders, tie a separate light tippet to the end of the leader and then to the fly in order to minimize its visibility; the tippet also helps to turn the leader and fly over with a well-executed cast, and it helps the fly act naturally with less line drag. When using large flies, such as bugs or poppers for bass fishing or big streamers for salt-water species, use a short but heavier tippet, known as a shock tippet (see).

Lengths and strengths of fly leader vary with fish and conditions. Although traditionalists tie knotted compound tapered leaders, most anglers, especially in freshwater, use knotless tapered leaders, since the former take time to construct properly; require an assortment of lines for making the full leader; and can be troublesome when the knots catch on guides, surface debris, grass, or other objects. However, being able to tie your own knotted leader can be helpful when delicate circumstances require a fine leader; in any event, the tip of a knotless leader usually has to be replaced eventually with a newly knotted section of tippet.

Fly leader lengths typically range from 71/2 feet to 10 feet, but also run to either extreme down to 4 feet and up to 16. As a generality, longer leaders (over 7 feet) are used with floating lines, and shorter leaders with sinking lines. Shorter lengths of nylon monofilament leader are preferable with sinking lines because this material is only slightly more dense than water and thus sinks slowly. Fluorocarbon material, however, is more dense and sinks faster, allowing for longer leader lengths when sinking fly lines are used.

The length of leader varies with fishing conditions and species. Most stream trout anglers use a leader that is about 9 feet long, and many use a longer leader for wary and selective fish if a proper back cast can be made. The problem with long leaders in tight quarters is that the angler often cannot get enough fly line in the air (because of brush and trees) to carry the long leader, or to roll cast enough fly line to unfurl a long leader. This has led to a general belief in using a leader that is about the overall length of the fishing rod, but this is just a convenient guideline, since some anglers are very successful with longer leaders and some with shorter ones. In fact, shorter leaders are preferred by many people who are very capable casters, since they can put the fly where they want it without getting the fly line near or over the fish. Shorter fly leaders are also favored in situations where fish are less wary or generally aggressive.

Fly leaders are typically much stronger for saltwater fishing applications than for freshwater, and they start with heavier butts that commonly taper to 12- or 16-pound-test tippets, although they can be much lighter. Many are constructed with loops in both ends to facilitate quick changing of the leader or of the shock tippet (also commonly used for bigger species). Some shock tippets also employ a short length of braided or single-strand wire ahead of the fly; this is helpful for sharp-toothed fish like barracuda and bluefish.

Many fly anglers, especially those after tarpon, keep a set of shock leaders prepared and ready to fish when the need arises to interchange leaders. They use heavy monofilament, which also takes some work to straighten, so prestraightened line is tied to a fly and kept in traction for use as a spare if needed.

Level Monofilament Leaders

Using double line and line-to-line knots, you can create a heavy shock tippet for a light line. This example depicts lengths that conform to record-keeping rules.

In non-fly-fishing applications, level leaders may be used with any type of tackle and with a variety of techniques. A level leader has one unknotted section of line of the same strength and diameter throughout; this is distinguished from a tapered leader, which is used with flycasting tackle to help present a fly. When casting with other types of equipment, there is no benefit to a tapered leader for presentation, since the weight of the object being cast carries the line.

Whether a leader is necessary or desirable at all depends on the situation and the species. Most freshwater bait and lure anglers seldom use a leader; they tie their nylon monofilament fishing line (the overwhelming favorite) directly to the lure, hook, snap, swivel, or rig because the fish they catch and the circumstances do not endanger the terminal end of the fishing line, or they periodically cut off a small piece of the line as necessary and retie it. Consistent fishing in areas where the terminal fishing line is likely to be abraded might call for a heavy nylon monofilament leader, provided that doing so doesn’t alert the fish; the clearer the water, the more you have to be sensitive to the visibility of the end of the line (because of diameter and possibly color). In freshwater, species that often require a leader are pike, muskies, and payara; however, most anglers use a short wire leader for these toothy species rather than a nylon monofilament leader.

In saltwater, a nylon monofilament leader is used for many species but not on others. Line can be tied directly to a hook or to a lure when fishing for striped bass, for example. Most anglers using light spinning tackle for bonefish can tie the fishing line directly to a shrimp hook or to a jig. However, a heavy monofilament leader is desirable for some species because of their sharp teeth or gill covers, or because the act of landing them puts a lot of stress on the terminal end of the line (which is often grabbed in landing fish, whether they are kept or released). Tarpon are a species that require a heavy mono leader; this is called a shock leader, similar to the shock tippet used in fly fishing, but it is simply a nylon monofilament leader, from 60 to 100 pounds in strength, that is tied to a lighter, usually 20-pound, main line. Heavy mono shock leaders may be useful for some toothy species, but a wire leader (also called a bite leader) is preferred in many other instances. As in freshwater, a nylon monofilament leader used in saltwater is almost always heavier than the main line and meant to provide extra strength and/or abrasion resistance.

The length of a nylon monofilament leader is usually short for freshwater fishing and for general casting purposes. As a rule when casting in freshwater, it should be a little less than the length of the rod, or just enough so that the knot connecting the leader and main fishing line doesn’t reach the reel when the lure or bait is reeled to the top of the rod. This shorter length is meant to keep the knot off the reel and lessen the chance of it hanging up and impeding casting or freespooling, which it is more likely to do on the smaller baitcasting and spinning reels used in freshwater. However, where big reels and light fishing line are used, a longer leader, which can be wound onto the reel, may be employed; this puts all of the close-to-the-boat pressure on the leader, with the main line wound onto the reel.

To qualify for a freshwater world record, a leader may not be longer than 6 feet; if a double line is used, the combined length of leader and double line may not exceed 10 feet. For practical purposes, most freshwater fishing doesn’t require a leader that is even 6 feet long, and many anglers use a leader that is no more than 4 feet long.

To qualify for a saltwater world record, a leader may not be longer than 15 feet on line classes up to 20 pounds, and the combined length of a leader and double line may be no more than 20 feet. The leader may be no longer than 30 feet on line classes over 20 pounds, and the combined length of the leader and double line may not exceed 40 feet. The greater lengths are geared more to tuna and billfish and to use with conventional tackle (see) or big-game tackle (see).

Keep in mind that you need only a short leader to provide protection from teeth, scales, gill covers, and the like. Also, you can combine a short heavy leader with a section of double line, if necessary. Light-tackle anglers in both freshwater and saltwater can use a combination approach to very effectively fish light line with a heavy leader. The most extreme example of this, and primarily for saltwater, is to make a double length of the light main fishing line, connect it to a heavy leader, and then connect this to a short shock tippet. In some cases, the shock tippet is unnecessary. To qualify for a world record, make sure that the respective lengths of each section and the overall length conform to requirements.

In both environments, there are no restrictions regarding the strength of the leader or the material used, and this fact allows wire to be used as leader material under the same stipulations. The strength of the leader, however, should generally be only enough to provide the toughness or protection needed. For leader strength, stronger isn’t always better; greater strength often also means greater diameter, which can mean greater visibility, which may translate into fewer strikes.

Nylon monofilament leaders are tied to the double line by using a number of knots (see: knots, fishing), with a line-to-line Uni Knot being especially useful. Two important points to consider are making a connection that retains the full breaking strength of the line—this is essential where great pressure, big fish, and light line are involved—and tying a neat knot that flows readily through the rod guides (and in some cases onto the reel spool).

Some reasons for using a nylon monofilament leader are not as obvious as the main issues of resistance to abrasion and cutting. For example, when the fish are very selective and spooky, it might be useful to fish with a leader that is lighter than the main fishing line, or to use one that is less visible (perhaps fluorocarbon). When using a Dacron or microfilament line (see: line) for its low stretch and high sensitivity, tying in a nylon monofilament leader may be best because it is less visible and aids in repeated retying. Likewise, using lead-core line calls for a nylon monofilament leader to overcome the visibility of the main line.

Catching large fish on light and ultralight lines is definitely aided by having at least a heavier leader (or a double line or both). And any time there is a lot of stress on the terminal end of the line (especially when landing fish), a leader or a double length of line should be a consideration.

When fish have repeatedly cut off your line or leader, or when the likelihood is high that they will, consider using a wire leader. However, the action of wire leaders is not as good as more supple nylon monofilament, no matter what the strength or diameter, and they are subject to some problems—kinking and curling—that most nylon mono-filament doesn’t have.

Wire Leaders

Shown are crimps of nylon monofilament: coated wire (1) cable (2) and wire with stainless steel thimble (3).

The purpose of a wire leader is to prevent the terminal line from being cut. It is generally used in circumstances where nylon monofilament is apt to fail, such as when the teeth, bill, or other portions of a fish will slice or abrade the line. There are essentially preformed and self-made wire leaders, all are level in diameter, and they come in bright or dark brown versions, with the latter preferred by most anglers (the brighter wire is more noticeable and subject to being struck by fish).

Premanufactured wire leaders from 6 to 36 inches in length are mainly used in freshwater lure casting and trolling, primarily for toothy species like northern pike, muskellunge, and payara, occasionally for lake trout, and also for peacock bass and striped bass in rough-and-tumble environs. They are also used in saltwater for some casting and inshore trolling activities, but not for heavy-duty big-game or offshore work, or when fishing bait.

The most common of these leaders are nylon-coated multistrand stainless steel leaders, which have a barrel swivel at the **** end, to which the fishing line is tied, and a snap swivel at the terminal end for connection to the lure. Some versions, however, are uncoated single-strand stainless steel and the newest and most durable ones are titanium coated. They’re available in various strengths, primarily from 20 to 75 pounds, and should be used in a strength that at least meets, and preferably exceeds, the breaking strength of the main line. For casting purposes, a short wire leader is preferred, and this can be combined with a nylon monofilament leader or a section of double line. As with all wire, these leaders are subject to kinking and coiling, and you should discard them when they reach this condition because they will impair lure action and may be weakened. Titanium-coated leaders, however, resist kinking and coiling and have a much longer life.

You can make this type of leader with coated multistrand wire, wire sleeves, snaps, and snap swivels, using good crimping pliers. You can also make a less-complicated wire leader with uncoated single-strand wire by connecting it directly to the lure or fly with a Haywire Twist (see) and then forming another Haywire at the other end, which is tied to the main line with an Albright Special knot. Twist-making and wire-straightening tools are available to assist with this, but the drawback is that this permanent wire-to-lure connection precludes quick changing of the lure or fly.

Still another option is a multistrand (braided) stainless steel wire that is flexible enough to be knotted. This has use for both fly and nonfly anglers. Likewise, short preformed light wire leaders with a preformed line tie are available from fly tackle suppliers; known as bite guards, they are available in 4- and 8-inch lengths, with one bent open end that the angler attaches to the eye of a fly by using a clever prefabricated retwistable Haywire Twist that is covered with a plastic tube. The other end is preformed into a closed loop. You can prerig these to be available for instant use as needed.

In saltwater, a heavy-duty system is used to prerig a class tippet to this wire leader, with a bunch of these stored and ready for instant use, as shown in the illustration on page 885. Using a class tippet, tie a 6-inch Bimini Twist in the **** end and then a Double Surgeon’s Loop, which will loop onto the monofilament leader (connected to the fly line); tie a 3-inch Bimini onto the tag end of the tippet, then connect that to a black interlocking snap equal in strength to the weakest part of the whole system. The closed loop of the bite guard is attached to the snap.

For offshore trolling and big-game activities, it’s necessary to use a longer leader made from single- or multistrand wire, which may or may not be coated with nylon. Coils of such wire are available from under 20-pound strength up to at least 250-pound strength in some varieties, and over 300 pounds in others, and in ample lengths for making numerous leaders.

Single-strand wire, also known as piano wire, is made of stainless steel and is comparatively cheap. It is nearly bulletproof when it comes to resisting cutting by a fish, but it is highly prone to kinking. This causes both minor and severe bends, the latter of which change the molecular structure of the wire and greatly weaken it. Thus, while single-strand wire with a minor kink can be straightened and reliably used, wire with a major kink should be discarded, and a new leader should be used.

Multistrand wire, referred to as cable, is more supple and does not kink as readily, but it has a thicker diameter, creates more drag, and is subject to weakening when thin individual strands are nicked or cut, even though the other strands may be unaffected. It needs to be run over a stainless steel thimble when it is bent or looped to prevent kinking. Cable is more often used in short lengths and for casting, and is often available with a nylon coating, which can be a nuisance because the coating is subject to shredding and fraying by fish teeth, requiring frequent replacement of the cable.

Although premade offshore leaders of different lengths and strengths are available, most expert offshore and big-game anglers prefer to make their own. The length depends on the application, but for offshore trolling and shark fishing, wire leaders are commonly from 12 to 18 feet long but up to 28 feet long in accordance with International Game Fish Association (IGFA) record specifications. Such lengths are necessary where long fish are caught; keep in mind that a big billfish, tuna, or shark, when it swims away, is capable of thrashing its tail repeatedly against the line, which is a major reason why the wire needs to be long enough to withstand this abrasion instead of the fishing line. However, a long wire leader means that the angler can reel the fish only so far to the boat and that crew mates must “wire” the fish by grasping the wire to get the fish close enough to land—preferably the fish will be tagged and released (by cutting the line if the fish has just a bait hook in its mouth, or by unhooking and retrieving a trolling lure). Skilled mates usually do a great job of wiring a fish, but it’s dangerous and problematic for a variety of reasons.

Shorter lengths are more common for most applications, with inshore and bottom fishing lengths being from a few feet long up to 10 feet. It is obviously desirable in some situations to use lighter-strength wire, which has a smaller diameter, to enhance bait or lure presentation and minimize detection, and the wire choice should be in accordance with the strength of the main fishing line.

The actual rigging of a single-strand wire leader in its simplest form requires making a Haywire Twist in the **** end that will be attached to a heavy-duty snap swivel at the end of the fishing line (which is most likely doubled); the other end is then run through the eye of a bait hook or through the connection for a prerigged natural bait or lure, and another Haywire is made. The rigged leader is neatly coiled and stored for use as necessary.

Many rigs for trolling, bottom fishing, or baitfishing require other uses of wire (and also heavy monofilament line) that involve crimping with a heavy-duty hand crimper, using single- or double-oval sleeves (which are squeezed and are better than round sleeves, which are crushed), and using nylon or stainless steel thimbles for holding a loop. Crimps should squeeze the line instead of crushing it, and in some cases two crimps are employed instead of one, but that is usually because an inferior crimping tool or sleeve is used.