Surf Techniques Fishing
Fishing from the beach—minus the pier or bridge—is the saltwater angler’s answer to fresh-water fishing from the bank. Known as surf fishing, it brings forth a vision of an angler with a long rod, braving large breaking waves and casting a heavily weighted bait great distances over the roiled and foamy water, mostly on a deserted stretch of beach, at dawn or at night. However, angling in or from the surf not only refers to this conventional view, but also to fishing accessible coastal beaches, in protected backwaters or in locations where the surf ripples instead of pounds, with a variety of fishing equipment for any number of inshore species, at all times of the day.
Fishing from the surf may be the venue of choice for anglers without boats or for those who prefer to be on terra firma (sometimes not so firma, how-ever, along the beach). It may be preferred by those who simply like the sights, sounds, challenges, and camaraderie provided, notwithstanding some disadvantages in mobility. And surf fishing has been an angling mode since before there were boats with motors; in the United States, it really blossomed after World War II, when new rods, reels, and lines made casting easier and when surplus Army Jeeps made it possible to access then undeveloped beach areas.
Surf fishing has experienced some cyclic levels of activity, particularly along the Atlantic seaboard where landforms make it a readily available angling option in virtually every coastal state. Relatively high fish population levels generated a lot of surf fishing activity from the 1950s through the 1980s. Striped bass, bluefish, and weakfish were the mainstays along the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic states. Red drum, channel bass, spottail bass, puppy drum, and redfish had a large following along southeastern and Gulf Coast states. And on the West Coast, the previously transplanted striped bass drew many anglers to the rocky shoreline.
But surf fishing fortunes took a nosedive in the late 1980s as striped bass, weakfish, bluefish, and red drum populations suffered because of com- mercial overfishing, poor reproductive rates, and myriad environmental problems. These fisheries reemerged in the mid- to late 1990s, and the number of surf anglers concurrently blossomed.
All surf anglers aspire to the lofty goal of catching a trophy specimen of one of these popular species, but most are happy with a bucketful of spot, croaker, trout, flounder, perch, or any of the various small species that are common along the surf line. And although specialized attention is devoted to some species, especially when fishing with lures, a majority of the effort is directed at catching anything that is available.
Certainly the tackle and the techniques that are devoted to surf fishing for particular species vary according to the habits of the fish as well as the conditions, but certain similarities are evident no matter where it is enjoyed.
Surf fishing pits angler against fish in a place where almost everything favors the fish. It is an act that requires total confidence in the ability to pick the exact spot along thousands of miles of coastline where a fish will find the angler’s single offering. More often than not, the choice is wrong, but it is a tremendous thrill to stand in the surf with spray on your face and a big fish on the line, knowing you did it all by yourself.
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Basic Outfits
Surf anglers are often pictured as lone wolves patrolling the high surf with long rods, tossing heavy baits or lures and landing 50-pound stripers or drum through the breakers. Indeed, that is how most surf anglers picture themselves. In reality they spend most of their angling time pursuing much smaller fish with much lighter tackle. The average surf caster will carry some heavy artillery but will also have a variety of smaller outfits that in some cases are light enough to be at home on freshwater trout streams.
Selecting a surf fishing outfit, particularly the magnum versions, requires an examination of several factors, beginning with the size and strength of the individual. A big person can usually handle a much heavier outfit than someone small in stature. This does not mean that these two people couldn’t fish side by side and have an equal chance of success; they just need tackle to match their physical capabilities.
Heavy gear
The heaviest outfit in common use by today’s surf caster is one called the Hatteras Heaver. Developed along the Outer Banks of North Carolina, this rod-and-reel combination is designed to toss a 6- to 12-ounce sinker and a big chunk of cut mullet or menhaden into the teeth of a gale.
The rod will be 10 to 12 feet long with a heavy action and will have a tip whose diameter is equivalent to the business end of a pool cue. Most Hatteras Heavers are made of graphite, but some anglers prefer heavier fiberglass models that are less likely to be damaged by rough handling. Such big rods call for big reels and heavy line. Conventional reels having a capacity of at least 300 yards of 20-pound line or 200 yards of 30-pound, and sporting ball bearings on the drive shaft, are very popular. These are filled with 20- to 30-pound line (pri- marily conventional-diameter nylon monofilament) that is usually knotted to a 50- to 80-pound shock leader. Spinning reels are not as common on heavy-duty rods as they are on lighter gear, but some mega spinning reels, which hold a similar amount of line and have high-strength gears, will handle the load. Spinning tackle users may fill up with 30-pound line, but 25 is more common, again tied to a 50- to 80-pound shock leader.
Hatteras Heavers generally find limited use, although fishing a drum run on a place like Hatteras Point without one puts the angler at a great disadvantage.
Medium and light gear
A more practical outfit that will serve all but the most severe fishing operations is a 10- to 12-foot medium-action rod that will handle 4 to 6 ounces of weight. A conventional reel, or a spinning reel, filled with 15- to 20-pound line and matched to the rod, completes the package.
Fiberglass, graphite, and a blend of both fibers are currently used for these rods. A fiberglass surf casting rod is heavier and less expensive than graphite, although the latter is more powerful, meaning that it transfers more energy from the rod to the object being cast. A rod made with both fiberglass and graphite combines the best properties of both and has more durability than an all-graphite product.
Most rods used by surf anglers are longer than those used by saltwater anglers who fish from boats. Long rods are needed to overcome the height of the waves and to attain greater casting distance. While long is good, longer is not necessarily better. Once a rod surpasses 12 to 13 feet in length, effectiveness drops off dramatically. Long-distance tournament casters use 12- to 13-foot rods, and if they could get another inch of distance out of a longer stick, they would use 30-footers. Even 12-footers may be too much for some people, so this is where you need to evaluate rod length in relation to your own stature and strength.
Older two-piece surf rods were made of fiberglass and had metal ferrules. These behaved like two separate rods, one short stiff piece that held the reel and one long thin piece running out from the ferrule to the tip. The metal ferrule not only made an unyielding connection but also had an annoying habit of becoming a permanent connection. Dissatisfied with these, hard-core surf casters turned to one-piece rods that were lighter and more powerful but created serious storage problems. Eventually rod designers began to build two-piece rods that behaved like one-piece models by making the ferrule part of the rod blank; this has made storage and transportation of rods much easier for surf anglers.
Although this is the conventional medium-weight tackle for surf fishing, some situations require slightly different approaches. For example, anglers who fish for snook in the surf in some parts of their range may use 7- to 9-foot rods equipped with medium-weight baitcasting reels and spooled with 12- to 17-pound line. To the hard-core surfcaster, this is a lightweight rig, one that would not do for heaving heavy weights with bait; but these anglers are more concerned with getting some distance on their casts to get lures out into the proper depth of water and portion of the surf, as well as having some leverage for playing fish. They may use the same tackle inland or inshore for non–surf fishing activities. So surf tackle is relative to the situation, and some situations may dictate still lighter tackle yet.
In addition to the standard medium-action outfit, most surf anglers will also have at least one smaller setup. This will be used, for example, when working a slough for small bottom feeders or when tossing light lures for trout, blues, and drum.
A 7-foot rod matched to a reel holding 10- to 15-pound line will handle bottom fishing and will cast all but the smallest lures. Speckled trout anglers and anglers fishing for small stripers often toss small jigs or lightweight plugs, and they will step down to much lighter rods and reels using 6- to 8-pound line. These smaller outfits are also utilized by pompano anglers who cast light weights and small baits just beyond the surf line.
The choice between a spinning or conventional reel for medium or light surf gear is primarily decided by personal preference and experience. Many anglers like the ease of operation provided by a spinning reel, whereas others feel they have more control with the revolving spool on a conventional reel (see: baitcasting tackle; conventional tackle; spinning tackle). In the hands of a good caster, the modern conventional reel works well and offers less line-twisting trouble.
Nylon monofilament remains the line of choice for the vast majority of surf fishing situations. Braided and fused multifilament lines with a thin diameter aid casting and reel capacity, but their low abrasion resistance can cause problems in the tough conditions of surf fishing.
Shock leaders
Shock leaders are required in most surf fishing situations. A shock leader absorbs the wear on the line created by constant casting with heavy weights or lures. It should be long enough to wrap two or three times around the spool while the lure or bait rig hangs close to the first guide up from the reel. This heavy leader also comes in handy when trying to pull a big fish in through the breakers. As a general rule the shock leader should be twice as heavy as the running line. Use a Blood Knot for tying a 50- to 80-pound leader to 20- or 30-pound fishing line, and an Albright Knot for a heavier leader (see: knots, fishing). The knot is the weak link in the entire rig, so it must be properly tied, trimmed off as closely as possible, and regularly checked for wear.
Accessories
Surf fishing can be a very simple sport requiring only rod, reel, line, hook, sinker, and bait. But surf anglers, like most other anglers, are drawn to accessories; some may be as simple as a canvas bag to carry spare tackle or as elaborate as a four-wheel-drive truck with a fully equipped slide-in camper.
One thing that most dedicated surf anglers agree on is that it is false economy to go fishing with only one rig or lure. Even the most experienced surf caster will snap off the occasional rig, and it may take only one nasty bluefish to render that lure inoperable. You need to be prepared.
Transporting gear
Since you need more than just one easily carried outfit, the problem becomes transporting extra gear from the point of departure to the surf line. Certainly the most convenient and comfortable method of conveyance is a four-wheel-drive vehicle, but many beaches are closed to vehicles and many surf anglers are not willing to devote a considerable amount of capital to the sport. Enter the 5-gallon bucket. A surf angler can pack everything needed for a day at the beach in a 5-gallon spackle bucket, which is readily available at many construction sites.
Clean the bucket and modify it as necessary. Holes drilled around the lip will serve as places to store lures and will prevent horrible tangles on the bottom of the bucket. An old bicycle tire stretched around the outside will keep exposed hooks from finding waders or body parts. Small tackle boxes filled with hooks, snaps, and various hardware can be placed inside, along with bait, bait knife, cutting board, sand spikes, and something to eat and drink. Expeditions of more than a few hours require a small cooler to keep bait fresh, and this means more to carry; if you’re planning to keep some of your catch, consider that you will be more burdened on the return trip.
Although most surf anglers set up shop and stay in one place, others prefer to walk the beach, fishing as they go. These anglers must travel light but still have the tackle they need. A surf bag made from canvas or nylon, carried on a shoulder strap or wader belt, becomes the tackle box. The interior of the bag is divided into compartments that hold lures or rigs, and the outside has small pockets that separate the snaps, swivels, and leaders.
A surf cart is a device that makes life much easier for the walk-on angler. Carts are made from a variety of materials including wood, plastic, and aluminum. Style and design reflect the builder’s personal choice and encompass everything from a flat piece of plywood to an elaborate cart complete with rod holders and tackle drawers. Some manufactured carts use low-pressure balloon tires for wheels, similar to those used for beach wheelchairs, with rod holders along the sides and enough storage to accommodate an extended stay.
At the optimum end of the transportation scene is the convenience offered by a four-wheel-drive vehicle, traditionally called a beach buggy by surf fishing enthusiasts. Many people who live near the beach or who fish the surf regularly have four-wheel-drive trucks or sport utilities that they use for getting to a parking place close to the fishing spot; in a few cases, it is possible to actually drive onto the beach, but this is now becoming less of an option. Naturally, such transportation is expensive, especially when the vehicle is new and deluxe. Used four-wheel-drives can be found, but careful inspection is needed to weed out the ones that have led a rough life.
These vehicles are usually outfitted to varying degrees to facilitate hauling tackle and accessories. Most beach buggy owners will add a rod-holding rack on the front to store rods, with reels on them, in a vertical position; a front cooler rack can hold waders, rods, sand spikes, buckets, and other items.
The interior of some beach buggies can be customized with tackle lockers, coolers, rod holders, stoves, bunks, portable toilets, and any number of other accessories to make life and fishing more convenient while on the beach.
It would be nice to have a vehicle just for surf fishing, but most anglers must use their beach-access vehicle for everyday driving as well, so the surf fishing accessories should be removable when not in use.
Waders and wet suits
Fishing the surf without getting into the water is almost impossible. In areas where the weather and the water are warm, anglers may wade in shorts or a bathing suit. Northern climates require more protection from the elements, except during midsummer.
A set of good-quality chest waders (see) is the best protection from cold water. Some are made from rubber, and the newer models are constructed from neoprene and are preferred by many surf anglers. Inexpensive and poor-quality waders will not hold up under the constant abuse delivered by pounding waves and abrasive sand, so it’s smart to get a good pair from the start.
Chest waders must be worn with a tightened belt to seal off the top in case the angler takes a tumble in the surf. Without this protection, the waders can fill up, pulling the angler under the water. As an added precaution, and for additional protection against rain and surf spray, a foul weather jacket is worn over the waders and is also belted at the waist.
A few surf anglers in certain places are not satisfied with casting from shore and feel compelled to swim to an offshore rock or sandbar in an effort to reach fish feeding beyond the range of shore-bound casters. These anglers are in the water for long pe-riods of time and require the protection of a wet suit. They may find themselves exposed to stinging jellyfish, curious and possibly hungry sharks, and strong currents. Their rods and reels are designed to operate under water. Most use spinning reels with holes drilled in the back plates so that the water pressure doesn’t pop off the spools. The rods are graphite to save weight, and other tackle is kept to a waterproof minimum. Obviously this activity is not for the average person and doesn’t appeal to everyone, but in certain locations it can be the means to success.
Footwear
When fishing warmwater areas where waders and wet suits are not required, the surf caster should always have some type of footwear protection. “Wet shoes” (shoes made to be worn in water), an old pair of canvas deck shoes, or even a pair of high-sided rubber boots will work. It’s important to protect your feet from the many sharp objects found in the sand. A cut on the bottom of the foot may end a day at the beach, and a severe cut may be an inconvenience for many days to come.
In many areas, jellyfish are common in the surf, and they will make it very uncomfortable for the unprotected wading angler. A pair of long pants provides some protection, but stings may still occur. Meat tenderizer, incidentally, is the best remedy for jellyfish stings. Rub a liberal amount of tenderizer on the injured area to relieve the pain.
Many surf anglers not only fish from the beach proper, but also walk the beach and stop to fish from jetties (see). Because jetties are wet and often moss-coated, they are slippery, and firm-gripping soles are a must. Standard rubber soles and felt soles will not suffice unless the jetty is dry. Many jetty anglers use manufactured creepers, which are devices that strap on over other footwear (they must be sized accordingly) and have spikes on the soles for gripping. The creepers can be slipped over canvas boat shoes in warm climates or over waders in cold areas. A more expensive solution is a pair of creepers custom-made from stainless steel or aluminum. On the less expensive but temporary side, a pair of discarded golf shoes will work; however, they soon fall apart under the ravages of saltwater, sand, and rocks.
Sand spikes
Sand spikes are devices employed by surf anglers to hold their rods while baiting up or changing rigs. They also hold the rod as the angler waits for a fish to take the bait. Most sand spikes are made from plastic pipe, but a few are constructed from aluminum tubing. Aluminum sand spikes are custom-made by shops that specialize in cooler racks and other accessories for surf fishing vehicles.
Plastic sand spikes may be 3 to 5 feet long and made from heavy PVC pipe or very light plastic tubes. A 3-footer is well suited for the walk-on angler because of its light weight. Longer and heavier sand spikes made from schedule 40 PVC are used when the surf is high. They may be hand carried, but the extra weight and length make this a burden.
Other gear
For the angler who is wading in the surf or standing on a jetty, landing a big fish can be difficult, and a gaff (see) is often indispensable. Beach anglers can use a short-handled or release gaff placed under the fish’s lower jaw, but jetty jockeys need a longer tool and placement is not always as accurate. Jetty gaffs are normally custom-made from 5- to 6-foot rod blanks. The gaff is epoxied into the small end, and the butt is wrapped with cork tape. A bungee strap is used to hold the gaff across the angler’s back until needed.
Many surf anglers patrol the beach at night, which is sometimes a delicate and dangerous job, complicated by the fact that any light shown on the water will probably spook the fish. Most after-dark surf anglers carry a small flashlight with a narrow beam that is usually held in the mouth when a light is needed to tie on new rigs or untangle lines. A miner’s light worn around the head is another option.
Several tools should be a part of every surf angler’s kit; the most important tool is a pair of high-quality fishing pliers. These are invaluable for cutting line and leader, removing hooks, crimping wire leader sleeves, and many other uses. A multipurpose tool is equally valuable for a variety of purposes, many of which cannot be anticipated. A knife for cutting bait or cleaning and filleting fish is also necessary.
Like all other anglers, those plying the surf should have raingear (at least a jacket for rain, surf spray, and wind), polarized sunglasses, a long-billed hat, sunscreen, and possibly insect repellent.
Bait
In most surf fishing situations, bait will outproduce artificial lures, but there is more to bait fishing than simply tossing a hunk of meat into the ocean. The angler who presents the proper bait in a natural manner will consistently bring fish to the beach. An effective presentation requires consideration of both the proper bait to use and the way to use it, as well as the bait rigs.
Bait rigs
A typical surf bait rig consists of a hook and sinker held together by a section of monofilament leader material. For big fish, such as trophy-size red drum or striped bass, you need 50- to 100-pound leaders. Small bottom fish, however, can be taken on leaders as light as 10 pounds.
Rigs can be purchased in local tackle shops, and these shops usually stock all the various types of rigs popular in the area. Tackle shops also carry the locally favored baits. When fishing an unfamiliar area, you should begin by purchasing local rigs to match whatever has been catching fish in that location even if you prefer to make up your own rig, as many surf anglers do.
Effective bait rigs do vary from one location to another, but most fall into one of three categories: top/bottom, single hook, and fishfinder.
The top/bottom rig, which is primarily used for small bottom fish, features a sinker and two hooks, spaced 5 to 12 inches apart, decorated with beads, spinner blades, bucktail hair, soft grubs, floats, or any other device that you believe will attract fish. Some species, such as pompano, prefer to take their bait from a plain hook.
In most applications, the drop from the leader to the hook will be quite short. Long leaders will foul when they’re cast or as they’re tossed about in the surf. Short leaders keep the hook close to the line for a better hookset. A top/bottom rig made from wire with 3- to 4-inch standoffs is popular in a few areas. Snelled hooks are looped over the ends of the standoffs.
Single-hook rigs are used when bigger fish are sought. Leaders may be 12 inches or longer and are made from heavy nylon monofilament or braided wire; the latter is reserved for such toothy critters as big bluefish, and the monofilament is used in all other cases.
The heart of the single-hook rig is a three-way swivel. The leader is attached to one eye, a sinker snap to the second eye, and the running line to the third eye. In most cases, the hook is left undeco-rated, but a large cork float, known as a fireball, may be added when sight feeders are the target.
A fishfinder rig is a single-hook rig that moves along the line. The running line or shock leader is threaded through a sleeve, usually made from plastic, and then tied to a large swivel. The leader is tied to the other end of the swivel. A sinker snap is attached to the plastic sleeve to secure the sinker, which will rest on the bottom. When a fish picks up the bait, it can move away without feeling the weight of the sinker. This is important when using live baits or when the target species needs a bit of time to get the bait well into its mouth.
The length of the leader on a fishfinder rig is a matter of some disagreement among anglers. A long leader, up to 36 inches, is favored by some, but it is very difficult to cast. Short leaders of 12 inches or less are easier to cast but provide little protection to the running line or shock leader. One variation is to put the plastic sleeve on the leader; this restricts the amount of line a fish can take but allows the sinker to slide down within 6 inches of the hook when casting.
Surf anglers seek all types and sizes of fish and utilize all types and sizes of hooks. The Chestertown is popular for small bottom feeders; the wide-gap Siwash works well on larger fish such as trout or flounder; and the offset Beak is often used for big drum or striped bass. In recent years, the Tuna Circle hook has gained popularity as catch-and-release (see) fishing has become more common. The Tuna Circle usually hooks a fish in the corner of the mouth, causing little if any injury to the victim. It is easy to remove once the fish is landed but has excellent holding power while the fish is being played.
Sinkers are needed to anchor each of these rigs to the bottom. They basically are found in pyramid and bank styles, with the former more common along the beach. A pyramid sinker has four angled sides that meet in a point. The eye is on the flat base, causing the sinker to dig into the sand and hold the rig. A bank sinker is shaped like a teardrop and will not dig into the sand or hold a rig in one location. It is used when the angler wants the bait to move across the bottom as the angler slowly cranks the rig back to the beach.
Various modifications have been made by anglers in an effort to build a better sinker for surf fishing. The Hurricane sinker is a pyramid with rounded sides that is supposed to cast well into a wind. A bank sinker with stiff wires molded into the end has less wind resistance than a pyramid. The wires turn over and dig into the bottom to hold better than the standard bank sinker.
Modifications are common not only on sinkers but on every aspect of surf fishing tackle. Surf anglers are an inventive lot. Many make their own rigs, build their own rods, and pour their own sinkers. Some create new products, but very few of these inventions make their creators rich.
Surf bait basics
The most important consideration when using bait is its condition. Fresh bait is vital to success and must be selected with the same care used to buy fish for the table. Look at the gills of prospective baitfish; they should be red, and the eyes should be clear, not pink. The flesh should not be soft, and the fish should have a clean smell. Frozen fish will work as bait, but fresh (unfrozen) is preferable. Frozen shrimp and crabs are useless. Frozen squid, however, seems to work as well as the fresh product.
Buying good bait is the first step, but it must be properly stored to keep it in prime condition. A cooler should be dedicated just for bait and set up to keep bait and ice separated. Most bait will lose color and turn to mush when submerged in ice water. Plastic containers that seal out air and water are excellent for keeping bait in a cooler. They also separate the different types of bait you might use, making it convenient to find what you want in the bottom of a crowded cooler.
All efforts to keep bait fresh will be wasted if it is cut up and left out for sea gulls, flies, and hot sun to spoil. Cut the bait into whatever size is appropriate, take what you need to put on the hook, and return the rest to the cooler.
Fish used for bait in surf angling come in all shapes and sizes. In most cases, fish will be cut into pieces, but small specimens such as finger mullet may be used whole. Depending on the target species, fish bait is cut into fillets or chunks. Chunks are used when you need a tougher bait for long casts or bigger fish. Fillets are used when you want a thin bait that will move in current. Fillets may be whole or cut into strips. Strip baits are effective when trying to imitate small thin baitfish, whereas whole fillets imitate larger species.
Fish baits should be cut with care. Try to make strips wide at the hook end tapering down to a point. Fillets should be cut to the shape of a fish; a sharp knife will split the tail for a very lifelike presentation. Chunks should be cut from the back of the head to the tail. The size of the target species determines the size of the chunk. For some reason, many anglers discard the head and tail, forgetting that fish eat the whole thing. In all cases it’s a good idea to remove the scales from fish bait; this is easy to do and makes hook insertion much easier.
Baits should be hooked through the thickest part, chunks through the back, fillets and strip baits through the wide end. Put the hook all the way through the bait, and leave the point exposed. It is hard enough to drive a hook into the fish’s mouth; you don’t want to be driving it through the bait as well.
Squid is cut into strips or small pieces. The strips work well when small, thin baitfish are in the surf. Pieces are just right for bottom feeders that prey on small invertebrates. The head of a squid makes an excellent bait for larger gamefish, and the tentacles can be threaded onto a Chestertown hook in place of a worm.
Sea worms are great baits for a surprising number of fish. Striped bass and weakfish are very fond of worms, especially in the spring. Sea mullet and spot will take a worm in place of anything else. Whole worms are hooked through the head or tail and allowed to stream out in the current. At times you may need several worms on the same hook to attract attention. Worms cut into bite-size pieces and threaded onto the hook are the ticket for bottom feeders who suck the bait into their mouths. A bit of worm left dangling from the end of the hook will add some moving enticement to the bait.
Fresh shrimp may be fished whole or cut into small pieces. They are very expensive bait and are saved for situations where only shrimp are effective. Pompano and speckled trout do show a definite preference for shrimp, but both will often take less-expensive offerings.
Crabs come in two stages: hard and peeler. A hard crab has a hard outer shell; a peeler crab has a soft shell under a hard outer shell. A peeler, which is also called a shedder, is getting ready to shed the outer shell and emerge as a soft-shelled crab. The soft shell variety is defenseless and is easy prey for all types of eager predators.
When fishing with either type of crab, remove the hard outer shell and cut the crab into sections with a pair of heavy-duty shears. Place the hook through a leg hole, not through the shell. Crabs do not stay on the hook very well and are often secured with rubber bands or dental floss.
Red drum are very fond of peeler crabs, especially in the spring when crabs are shedding. Unfortunately, every other fish in the ocean shares this craving for peeler crabs, and baits do not last long in the water.
Peelers can be expensive bait. Try to get the largest peelers you can, and cut them into as many pieces as possible. Trout will take a single section, but red drum require at least a quarter of a crab to attract their attention. A small piece of peeler on a bucktail will give the appearance of a larger bait.
Hard crab is a poor substitute when fish are feeding on peelers. The two baits evidently smell and taste different because fish can certainly tell them apart. Hard crabs become more acceptable later in the season when peelers are scarce. Cut hard crabs in small sections for big fall-run spot and croaker, and use half of a crab for drum and striped bass.
Live bait is used by surf anglers, but it does require a special container to keep the bait alive. Carrying a large container full of water and bait is not practical for a walk-on angler. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is needed to move a heavy livewell and provide the power to aerate it.
A large cooler can be converted into a portable livewell (see) or bait tank. A 30- to 50-quart cooler will suffice, but some anglers use a big 120-quart cooler. Obviously the larger the cooler, the more baitfish it will support, but a 120-quart cooler full of water weighs about 240 pounds and requires a big pump to keep it properly aerated.
A 50-quart cooler and a bilge pump that moves 800 gallons per hour will keep three or four dozen baits alive all day. Mount the pump in the bottom of the cooler, and run a hose up to a piece of PVC pipe hanging just below the hinge. The pipe should be between 18 and 24 inches long with 1/2-inch holes drilled at 1-inch intervals. A cap seals one end with a 90-degree elbow on the other end. The hose from the pump attaches to this elbow.
The pump and the pipe can be permanently attached to the cooler with clamps and screws, although this will make it difficult to use the cooler for anything but a live bait tank. If the pipe hangs down from the hinges on heavy monofilament and the pump just sits on the bottom, the whole rig can be removed when not in use.
Live baitfish are deployed with a fishfinder rig. When live bait is taken, the fish will swim off while turning the bait around to swallow it head first. This procedure takes a few seconds, and the fish may drop the bait if it feels the weight of the sinker. Exactly how much time you should allow for the fish to have the bait before you take up the slack and set the hook depends on the size of the bait, the species of fish, and your own judgment, keeping in mind that a longer wait usually means a more deeply hooked fish, which is more difficult to release unharmed.
Fish used as bait are best hooked through the lips or eye sockets. This allows them to swim in a somewhat natural manner while anchored to the bottom or while being slowly retrieved. Eels are also fished alive but require different treatment and handling. Store eels in a small cooler with a mixture of ice and water. By keeping the eels as cold as pos-sible, they will be much easier to handle when the time comes to put them on a hook. A damp rag will allow the eel to be handled without getting slime on the angler and the tackle.
Hook the eel through the lips or the eyes. Use a single-hook rig with a 3-foot leader tied to a drail heavy enough to cast the bait beyond the breakers. A slow retrieve back to the beach keeps the eel moving and prevents a seriously tangled leader. Eels that are cast out and allowed to sit on the bottom will get into all sorts of curled and line-wrapped mischief.
Salted eels are fished with a swimming lip. Although technically they are dead baits, rigged eels are worked like a lure. Cast them out and retrieve them so that they swim just above the bottom. A rigged eel is deadly on striped bass, especially at night or on overcast days.
In most coastal areas, there is a favorite bait and favorite way of fishing it. If you are a traveling angler, check with local tackle shops and follow local guidance until you find something that works better.
Sitting versus fishing
Most surf anglers leave their rods in a sand spike while their bait soaks somewhere offshore. Spiking the rod and soaking bait allows the angler to enjoy the social side of surf fishing while still catching the occasional fish. In some cases, you want the bait to stay in one place, such as at the edge of a bar when you’re waiting for a big drum to pass by. Nearly all surf anglers in drum country, while sitting in a beach chair with rod securely spiked and a cooler of refreshment nearby, will assure you that they really are drum fishing. But if you want to catch more than the occasional fish, you need to work at it. Get your rod out of the sand spike, and tend to business by replacing old bait with fresh bait, repositioning the bait, and covering various areas of the surf.
Certain situations clearly dictate a more active approach to surf angling than the chair and cooler method. Flounder, for instance, pre-fer a moving target, so you must keep the bait moving over the bottom. Several fish species cruise the inshore side of an outer bar looking for food washed over by the wave action. The best way to capitalize on this is to cast a bait onto the bar and allow it to wash down the dropoff. It takes some practice to reel in just enough line to keep in touch with the rig while letting it drop in a natural manner. You don’t do this once and then stop; you keep trying.
Using very light tackle and small rigs for pompano requires similar techniques. The small sinker will not hold bottom and will be swept along the beach. You must watch the angle of your line, moving it inshore while the current takes it parallel to the shore. The strike will come just beyond the breaker or in the white water after the wave breaks. Once the rig has passed these spots without notice, slowly reel in and try again.
Lures
The successful surf angler will choose the appropriate bait or lure to match current conditions. Although fishing with bait is generally preferred in the surf, lures are used in many locations on a wide variety of fish, and at certain times they will outproduce live or dead baits. Certain species, like Spanish mackerel, for example, are seldom taken on bait but will hit a well-placed metal lure. When bluefish are blitzing the beach, a surf bait will work, but a big surface popper provides more exciting action.
Three basic types of lures are used in the surf: metal lures, plugs, and leadhead jigs. Each has a specific use, but most fish will take all three under varying conditions.
Metal lures
Because surf angling requires casting a good distance and letting a sinking lure settle into and work through roiling water, surf anglers often prefer a thick-bodied metal lure. Metal lures for taking fish from the surf began with the heavy-bodied and so-called tin squids (see) that were hand-cast on tarred line coiled at the angler’s feet. Now metal lures are made from lead or stainless steel and are tossed by rods and reels. These are straight, heavy-bodied products that are primarily used for casting.
There are several well-known brands of stainless steel models that cast like a bullet and work with either a fast or a slow retrieve. Thin and thick versions are used when you’re matching thin or fat baitfish, respectively. Lead models also come in various sizes, with smaller ones working on Spanish mackerel and small bluefish, and larger ones on trout and striped bass.
Smaller metal lures are cast to breaking fish and retrieved rather quickly. The strike often comes as soon as the lure hits the water, so the reel must be engaged upon impact. If the fish fails to make contact immediately, you must crank the lure quickly to keep it working close to the surface. At times a slight pause to let the lure drop a bit may induce a strike. Larger, heavier lures are fished along the bottom with a hopping, jigging action to imitate a sand eel. Sometimes it’s good to let lure sink into the sand and then jerk it out by quickly raising the rod tip.
Spoons are sometimes also used in the surf, but their wide surface area and generally light weight make them less aerodynamic and more difficult to cast. Under favorable conditions, the heavier, thicker metal spoons can be employed as is. Lightweight spoons can be effective when accompanied by a drail, which is tied 12 to 18 inches above the spoon to add the weight necessary to cast beyond the breakers. Allow the rig to sink; then use a moderate retrieve to keep the spoon just above the bottom. Trout, stripers, drum, and other bottom feeders may find this technique irresistible.
A few manufacturers still produce lures made from tin, and more may do so if regulations prohibit lead lures. Tin is more expensive than other metals, but it does have a special glow when polished in the wet sand.
Plugs
Saltwater surf plugs had their roots in freshwater and really got started in the 1940s with models that were introduced and used successfully for stripers on Cape Cod. Then, as now, a surf fishing plug must be heavy enough and have the proper shape to cast well, plus have a slow to moderate swimming action. Most surf plugs are shallow-swimming models; deep divers have little merit in the shallow intertidal zone of the surf.
Swimming plugs for surf use come in various styles. The most popular plugs have a slow side-to-side action and can be worked in different sea conditions. Darting versions have a long, angled face and will swim in a wide side-to-side motion. They can be very effective in a rip at the mouth of an inlet or at the end of a point or bar. Cast the plug upcurrent, and allow it to sweep past with little or no retrieve. The force of the current will cause the plug to work.
The breaking waves and cross currents will contribute to the action of most swimming lures, and you must adjust the retrieve to compensate for these factors. Plugs should be cast just beyond a wave that is about to break. As the wave rolls toward the beach, the plug is retrieved at the proper speed to keep it working in the whitewater but ahead of the next wave that would tumble it head over tail. The plug should give the impression of a baitfish caught up in, or struggling against, the waves and thus be easy prey.
An exception to this retrieval tactic are needlefishlike plugs that are long and thin and without inherent action. These are slowly retrieved without any movement of the rod tip so that they come through the water in a straight line. These plugs are basically like a stick with hooks, but they have accounted for many big stripers. Some other straight-running plugs are used in the surf with a bit of rod-tip movement.
Surf anglers can also double-up when using a plug by placing a second lure on a dropper line ahead of the plug. This second lure may be a small fly, a soft grub, or a small bucktail jig, each of which acts like a baitfish trying to avoid a predator (the plug). Quite often a strike will come on the dropper lure.
Cross currents or rips at the end of points leave eddies of slower-moving water where gamefish wait for bait to tumble past. A plug cast up and across the current will sweep by this eddy and may attract a strike. Slow-swimming lures that will work with little more than the pressure of the current are particularly effective in these rips. Plugs worked in the roiled surf along jetties, causeways, and pilings are also likely to bring strikes, since the flash of these lures where waves wash up and roil can be an attractant.
Occasionally a surface plug has merit in the surf, although this is usually when a school of gamefish has pinned a school of bait against the beach or is chasing bait to the surface. At such times, almost any lure that will reach the fracas will be effective, but a surface lure that pops, chugs, and spits water is most exciting to fish.
Many topwater surf plugs are weighted for long casts but sit very low once they are in the water. A constant, fast retrieve is needed to keep them working on the surface. Plugs that float high can be retrieved slowly; allow them to rest a bit between pops. This style of plug can be effective at night on calm waters.
The pencil-style popper has a unique design and action. Weighted at the stern, it rides in the water with the top pointed up and the rear pointed down. Work the popper with a slow retrieve combined with a fast and furious action from the rod tip. This is best accomplished with the rod butt placed between your legs while you work the tip with your hand placed above the reel. This position is rather awkward looking but very effective when you want the plug to jump up and down in one place like an injured baitfish.
Leadhead jigs
The most versatile weapon in the surf angler’s arsenal is the leadhead jig, known to many simply as a leadhead. Dressed with bucktail hair, a soft-bait tail, or a strip of bait, this lure will imitate the food of most gamefish.
Leadheads come in a variety of head shapes, with the rounded, bullet, and Upperman styles very popular with surf casters. A surf jig must cast well and sink fast, and these particular shapes have low resistance to both air and water.
Larger jigs are usually shaped like a bullet and may be adorned with glass eyes or a smiling face. A few leadheads are shaped to impart a swimming action. The lip used ahead of a rubber or plastic eel is an example of this style of leadhead. The boxing glove style makes the jig wobble slowly from side to side as it falls through the water column. Most strikes occur when a jig is dropping, so this style can attract more fish. It does have a higher wind resistance than most jig heads but can still be effective when worked along the beach on a still, warm summer evening. Turbulent waters in the surf make it difficult to maintain control of a jig. Light line will aid in both casting distance and control, with the jig tied directly to the main line without benefit of leader or hardware.
Bucktail jigs will catch just about anything that swims in the ocean at one time or another, and they are the preferred surf jig. The hollow deer hair of a bucktail adds buoyancy and a breathing action unlike any other lure. Worked with a jigging motion that allows the bucktail to rise and fall, the hair will compress and expand, imparting a lifelike action.
Select the size and color of the bucktail to match the size and color of local baitfish. Also consider contrast. A dark lure works better against a light background like sand, and a light color stands out more against a dark background like rocks. A bucktail with white hair and a red head is a popular all-around pattern.
Tie a bucktail directly to the line or leader with an Improved Clinch or Loop Knot. The Improved Clinch keeps the jig working in a vertical direction, and a loop allows it to swing from side to side. Bucktails can be worked fast, slow, shallow, and deep. A fast retrieve just below the surface can be deadly on Spanish mackerel or bluefish. Working it slowly along the bottom is good for speckled trout, flounder, or striped bass.
Threading a soft-tail bait onto the hook shank makes a leadhead jig even more versatile. Large soft-tail leadheads are deadly on drum, striped bass, and flounder. Smaller versions are used for speckled trout, puppy drum, and a wide variety of other small bottom feeders. Some have a curled tail and a swimming action; others impart little motion or only a small wag. The speed of retrieve is generally slower for soft-tailed jigs. A straight retrieve works best on swimming models, whereas a hop-and-skip action can make the straight runners come alive. Tying two jigs 8 to 10 inches apart improves casting distance and may make the lure more appealing.
In all cases, a jig should be worked all the way through the surf line. Gamefish may follow a jig to the water’s edge before deciding to eat, so an early end to the retrieve may take the bait out of the water too soon.
Sweetening a jig with some sort of natural bait is a common practice along the surf. Tough baits such as squid or shark belly hold up well and may be added to a naked jig or one dressed with bucktail hair or a soft tail. Pork rind can add life to any leadhead; the long, thin strips imitate such natural food as spearing, and they are deadly on flounder and trout. They also work for bluefish and hold up against their sharp teeth. White seems to be the favorite and most productive color in the surf, but pork rind is available in many hues.
The prudent angler will carry a selection of leadhead jigs in a wide variety of colors. The same is true of soft tails. Surf fish can be finicky, and the angler who can present the lure du jour will look like an expert angler.
Casting
Obviously, surf fishing is dependent on casting to get the bait or lure into the strike zone. The angler who can cast the farthest will often, but not always, catch the most fish. However, this is all relative. Casting far does not usually mean launching a lure or bait more than 150 feet. This distance may seem extreme to some anglers, particularly those used to fishing in freshwater, but it is not that far by saltwater standards, and some anglers are able to cast several times that distance at the beach. Fortunately, most fish feed close to the beach, and a super long heave is not required. A simple overhead cast will put the bait in the strike zone most of the time. Try to place such a cast just beyond the breakers or just inside the outer bar.
Proper tackle selection goes a long way toward making a good surf cast, especially one of moderate to long distances. A graphite rod combined with a conventional reel is a good beginning. Using the lightest line practical, in combination with a shock leader tied with a low-friction knot, also aids distance. Although thick-bodied metal lures and weighted surface plugs produce long casts, they may not always produce fish. Sometimes only a big hunk of cut bait will catch a fish. The problem with casting a heavy sinker and a big hunk of bait is trying to move two different objects in the same direction at the same time. The sinker sits at the very end of the line and by itself would be easy to cast. Add a second weight that has completely different aerodynamic properties and is dangling from a leader offset from the main line, and you encounter a problem.
Technique
To begin the most basic cast, start with the bait and sinker lying on the beach behind you. While facing the ocean, point the tip of the rod directly at the rig, take out all line slack, and then bring the rod tip up sharply over your head, stopping at an imaginary 10 o’clock position as you release the line. Many beginners have a problem releasing the line at the proper time. Releasing it too early will cause the rig to fall behind you; releasing too late will cause it to fall short and the line may cut your finger. Practice will overcome this problem.
Small rigs with one or two hooks are much easier to cast. Some rigs currently on the market have a release system that holds the hook tight to the line but lets it swing free when the rig hits the water. This produces an aerodynamic packet that should go farther toward the horizon.
For extreme distances, you might try the pendulum cast, which was introduced to American surf anglers by John Holden in the 1970s. This technique is a bit complicated and involves swinging a single weight around, behind, and over your head to load the rod with the maximum amount of energy. Long-distance casters can exceed 700 feet in competition, using special equipment and this technique. Beach casters may top 600 feet with outfits capable of bringing in a fish. To practice this cast, you will need a very long practice field with plenty of room on all sides because a breakoff will often travel to the right or left of the caster.
A modified version of the pendulum cast will do the job in most fishing situations. Hold the rod over your shoulder, and let the rig swing just above the ground. Push the rod back until the rig swings straight out, loading the rod. Come around in a side-arm fashion, and release the line when you feel maximum load. For more information, see: Casting.
Conventional reels permit longer casts than spinning reels because their revolving spools actually push the line off the reel, and there is less coiling and friction from the departing line. If left uncontrolled, the line will overrun the spool and create a backlash (see). Expert casters control the line with light thumb pressure on the spool; most people rely on counterweights or magnets to do this job, in some cases with a moderate amount of thumb pressure. These cast control mechanisms cut down on maximum casting distance, however, especially when dealing with such forces and distances as are required for surf fishing.
Remember that a longer rod does not always result in a longer cast. A 7- to 10-foot rod will work well up to 150 feet. An 11- to 13-foot rod will cast as far as anyone needs to go if it is well matched to the angler. Anything over 13 feet will only get in the way.
Be practical and safe
When trying to get a lure or bait into distant water, you do not need to start running from the base of the dunes to just short of the water’s edge before making a cast. Forward body speed is not carried over to the cast. This is not javelin throwing. Stay in one spot and concentrate on making a good casting motion, using the rod to maximize leverage.
Also, it does little good to wade out up to your armpits, make a cast, lock the reel in gear, and drag your rig back to the beach. Leave the reel out of gear until you’re back on dry land; then lock it down and crank out the slack.
Always look behind you before making a cast. Fellow anglers, children, bathers, and pets may stroll behind you, and they may take exception to being hooked or whacked with a bait or heavy sinker. You should also be mindful of your own safety. If waves are crashing over the jetty, for example, wait for the tide to subside so you don’t take an unnecessary risk.
Picking a Spot
The surf line is a constantly changing mix of sand, mud, rock, or any combination of materials. Surf anglers must use experience and knowledge to pick a spot where the fish will be active during their time on the beach. Anglers working from boats not only have greater mobility, but also have electronic aids, which are of no value to surf casters. Most surf anglers are on foot and thus have limited mobility. While it is always possible that the inexperienced angler may stumble onto a fishing hotspot, those who study the surf and learn about tides and currents will know where to be and at what preferred times, and will do better over the long haul.
Sand makes up most of the beaches where surf anglers congregate, and it moves about with the tides and currents. This movement creates bars, sloughs, washouts, runouts, holes, channels, and other formations that may combine some or all of the above. The surf angler must look at the surface of the water and figure out exactly what lies underneath, be aware of the present stage of the tide and current, and have some knowledge of what the existing or predicted winds will do to the waves. It is also helpful to know when the target species is likely to stop by for a meal. This sounds like finding a needle in a haystack, but it is not that complicated.
According to oceanographers, a wave will break when the water below it is twice as deep as the wave is high. In other words, a 1-foot wave will break in 2 feet of water. Thus, waves break in shallow water but hold together over deep water.
A natural beach allows the wave to break gradually, dissipating its energy over some distance. As the wave rolls in, it begins to break offshore on the outer bar, churning sand from the bottom and pushing it back to the bar. A smaller wave now rides across the deeper water of the slough before breaking onshore. As this wave breaks on the beach, it scours out a dropoff at the edge of the white water. This dropoff moves in and out with the tide, but the outer bar remains somewhat stationary.
The distance from where the surf caster stands to the outer bar can vary considerably. In some places the bar will come to the beach forming a point, but a little farther up or down the shoreline the bar will be a distance of at least two and a half casting lengths offshore.
Because of varying combinations of wind, tide, and current, deep holes form along the beach. Some may come and go on a single tide, and others stay around until the next big storm. Washouts, runouts, and breaks in the outer bar are channels created by currents moving back and forth on the tides. Not only are these channels deeper than the surrounding water, but they act as highways for fish and bait to move from offshore to inshore and back offshore.
Low tide is the best time to figure out what type of structure lies below the water. When the depth of the water is at its lowest point, the difference between shallow and deep water is apparent. Waves will be breaking on the shallow areas, some of which may be completely exposed. Deeper water will be calm and should appear blue or green rather than white.
An offshore wind will create problems as it pushes more water toward the beach and increases the size of the waves. Deeper water and higher waves can disguise bottom structure; if the wind increases to more than 15 knots, the entire ocean may turn white.
Winds blowing offshore have a different effect. They push water away from land, exposing structure not seen on normal low tides. These winds also push the warm surface water offshore and can drop surf temperatures by 10° to 15°F. This sudden temperature drop is seldom beneficial to surf fishing.
If you crest the top of the dune line at low tide, you can survey a considerable stretch of beach. Look for waves breaking on an offshore bar that is close enough to be in casting range. A break in the bar or a place where the bar comes to the beach will funnel fish to you.
Set up a station close to the break or the point, and you will be in position for some action on the rising tide. Walk-on anglers will stay in one area, but those with four-wheel-drive vehicles can move about looking for the best action. Drive slowly and stop often to watch wave action and water color. Birds feeding close to shore are a positive sign, especially if big fish are observed breaking under the birds.
Watch not only the water, birds, and fish, but other anglers. When everyone is sitting in chairs or leaning on their vehicles talking, the action is pretty slow. A tight group of anglers standing at the water’s edge, holding rods without a sand spike in sight, indicates that someone recently caught something. If most of the rods are bent, you’ve found a good place to fish, and you better get started.
Every beach is a separate entity. Some are similar but none are exactly the same. A rocky coast in Maine or California fishes completely different from a sandy beach in North Carolina. The only way to learn how to read the beach where you fish is experience. The more time you put in on the beach, the more knowledge you’ll gain. For example, you should learn when stripers stage on the end of a certain bar, or when pompano move over an outer bar, or at what stage of the tide you can expect to find flounder in a particular slough. No matter how much you read or how many old salts you talk to, the only way to learn how to read the beach is to get out there and fish.
Night Fishing
Many fish species move into the surf at night to feed when they feel safer in the shallow water. Striped bass, weakfish, and red drum are among the fish that are taken regularly after dark.
Fishing the surf at night is similar to fishing in daylight but does require a few modifications. Avoid bright lights at all cost. Fish have very sensitive eyes, and the beam from a flashlight, headlights, or searchlight will send them to deeper, darker water. Never approach a fishing site with the headlights on or scan the water with a flashlight or searchlight. Should you violate this rule, those anglers who were catching fish before your arrival will do things to hasten your departure.
It’s a good idea to arrive at the beach before dark to scout the waters and allow your eyes to adjust. Scouting out the situation in daylight will make the return trip easier and safer because you will have seen the territory earlier in the light. You should always be careful when wading in the surf but especially so after dark. An angler who is knocked down by a wave or who steps into a deep hole may go unnoticed until it is too late. A miner’s light worn around the neck or on a hat helps surf anglers keep track of one another without shedding enough light on the water to spook the fish. The same light is also handy for close work when tying knots or unhooking fish.
Dress appropriately for night fishing because even the warmest summer day can turn into a chilly night on the beach. This is amplified when water temperatures are cold and the wind is blowing in.
Casting into a totally dark ocean using the sound of breaking waves as a guide takes a bit of getting used to. Any available moonlight helps, as do permanent shore lights. Fortunately, the tops of breaking waves are white and reflect even the smallest amount of available light.
Surf casters who work the night tides are a pretty dedicated bunch. Usually standoffish at first, they will come around when a newcomer demonstrates that he or she is capable and as dedicated as they are. Of course, it may take 15 to 20 years, but they will come around.
Playing/Landing Fish
Surf anglers face several obstacles when playing and landing fish. The quarry is quite a distance from the angler, which allows wind, tide, current and seaweed to play havoc with the fishing line. The long line gives a big fish plenty of room to swim up or down the beach, picking up the lines of neighboring anglers and creating quite a mess.
In almost every surf fishing situation, the angler will use heavy tackle and put as much pressure as possible on the fish. Heavy is relative, since 10-pound test may be fine for small fish in calm water but 50-pound may not be heavy enough for a big fish in heavy seas with crowded anglers.
It is seldom necessary to set the hook when fishing with bait. The fish hooks itself when it moves away with the bait and tries to pull the sinker out of the sand. Live or dead baits on fishfinder rigs are an exception, since the fish is allowed to run with the bait before the angler takes up all the slack and sets the hook.
Lures, of course, require some hooksetting, but they are generally fished on a shorter line than bait, and the angler will be aware of the strike. A quick upward sweep of the rod tip is enough to set the hook. Continued hooksetting is unnecessary and may pull the hook out of the fish.
Once hooked, the fish should be brought to the beach as quickly as possible. Keep the rod tip high, and crank in the line at a steady pace. If you crank too fast, the fish may come to the top, tumbling head over tail until the hook is free. A slow retrieve allows the fish too much time to figure out how to get away. Fish with a soft mouth do require a bit of finesse; a slow but steady retrieve will keep pressure on the hook and hold the fish on the line.
The real problem with landing a fish from the beach occurs at the surf line. Breaking waves tumble fish, which allows the line to go slack and gives the hook an opportunity to come out. Watch the waves and time your retrieve so that the fish rides the back of the wave without going over the top. The bigger the waves and the bigger the fish, the harder the job.
Once through the waves, the fish will be pulled back to sea by the undertow. Be careful not to exert much pressure on the fish, holding it in place until the undertow subsides. At this point, the prize should be lying on wet sand, waiting for you to pick it up.
Fish weighing up to 20 pounds can be landed with relative ease. Those over 20 are more difficult. Big fish are going to take line, but drag tension must be high. Fish usually run toward deeper water, but some will go up and down the beach instead of heading offshore. In either case, try to get as close to the water’s edge as possible to shorten the distance between you and the fish.
Keep the rod tip as high as possible when the fish is taking line; then drop down and crank before lifting up again to gain line. Always apply maximum pressure to tire the fish as quickly as possible. The longer the fight, the better the odds the fish will win.
Using quality tackle and tying good knots is the most important aspect of landing a big fish in the surf. Cheap rods, reels with jerky drags, rusty hooks, and weak knots will work on small fish; but when that trophy of a lifetime is finally hooked, everything had better be first-rate.
For more information on this topic, see: Playing Fish.
Access and Responsibility
For the most part, coastal beaches are controlled by federal, state, and municipal governments, as well as by private individuals, organizations, and corporations. In most cases, you must have permission to access a particular portion of beach. Many government agencies have established access points for a good deal of oceanfront. Most charge a fee to use a four-wheel-drive vehicle, if that is allowed at all (a special permit is usually issued, and it may require the holder to have a pail, tow rope or chain, shovel, fishing rod, and other items in the vehicle while on the beach). A few beaches are free for walk-on anglers, but very few have free and unrestricted access to the ocean for beach buggies.
As coastal areas become more populated and increasingly utilized, fishing space becomes a rarer commodity. The fate of all beaches is susceptible to many influences, and anglers may find it increasingly difficult to gain access to beaches or to convince policymakers that they are entitled to recreate there as well. Some angling organizations and surf fishing clubs have been able to hold their ground, but pressure to ban access has grown and is likely to continue.
Surf anglers must be aware of this problem and do what they can to establish and maintain a good image and a good rapport with others. Exercising common sense is important. Always leaving the beach as clean as, or cleaner than, you found it, even if this involves cleaning up someone else’s mess, is a good way to start. Dispose of unused or discarded bait properly. Take off cleats or creepers when walking on wooden boardwalks or access lanes. Do not cross a strip of private property without permission simply because it is the easy way to get to a desirable fishing spot. If someone is swimming or surfing right in the middle of your favorite fishing spot, leave it and come back later. Beach buggy owners must be particularly careful. Stay in designated areas, do not drive on or even near the dunes, and avoid nesting bird habitat, especially that of piping plovers. Don’t take an unnecessary risk. If the sand looks a little soft, get out of the vehicle and walk across; if you sink, your beach buggy will go down to the axles, and it may put one more nail in the coffin of other vehicular users.
Fishing when less people are present will help avoid user conflicts. The best surf fishing is often at dawn, at dusk, at night, in poor weather, and in the fall, all of which are times when there are few others on the beach. Nevertheless, you shouldn’t crowd in on another angler’s spot, or put out more than two rods.
Surf anglers seldom make a significant dent in fish populations, but they must be mindful of the need to conserve. As is also true for other fishing, surf anglers must obey all regulations, keep only the fish they plan to eat, and never kill unwanted fish or leave them to die on the beach.
Loop knot
Dropper loops
Loop knot
Pyramid sinker
Three-way swivel
36-inch leader
1- to 3-ounce bank sinker
Fishfinder Rig
Barrel swivel
Pyramid sinker
Split shot
Breaking waves
Bar
Slough
Beach
Wave
Wave
Beach
Dropoff
Slough
Sandbar
Sandbar
Cut
Sandbar
Slough
Beach
Used by arrangement with John Wiley & Sons,Inc.,(Fish illustrations © 1999 David Kiphuth.)
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